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Buzzworm's Backyard 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Kerry, EFR, 1989
Season: pretty much any season
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 3, 2010

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This route is 80-90 feet (the first five bolts) of exquisite, sustained 5.10 face climbing on great rock, followed by 30 feet of easy, loose climbing, followed by 5 feet of impossible but easily aided climbing. The last two sections knock a star off, but it's still a great route.

The pitch ends at a belay alcove from which 3 options are possible: (1) rappel from two pins and a nut (bring webbing and a knife!); (2) continue up "The Grunt," which is the crack system that diagonals up and right; (3) continue up "Buzzworm's Bad Teeth," 5.9+ (fa Charles Vernon and Slaton Whatley?), which is the left crack above the belay and leads to a tree for a rappel. We took option 3 which has some great corner crack climbing but was also extremely dirty and loose--we did our best to clean this up but some rotten stuff remains.


This is the first route right of the obvious chimney/gully that splits the dome in half. Look for a line of bolts which leads to a more broken section. To rappel from the first pitch, a 70 meter rope would definitely work and a 60 might. To rappel from the tree atop "Buzzworm's Bad Teeth," two ropes are necessary.


A few pieces to supplement the bolts are nice--maybe tcus 1-3 and some stoppers. The bolts are typically about 10-15 feet apart. Standard rack to continue in either of the cracks above.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2017

I lead this route after doing something else with Bob. The five feet of "unclimbable" was surmounted by making a no hands stand up and deadpointing to a good hold.

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