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Buzzard Breath 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  TR, 64'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: Rmsyll on May 13, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The start to Buzzard Breath route.


Base is very ledged, lower part uses edge of slanting crack, normal route moves left toward and then along the arete. Upper part is juggy, 5.7 finish is around left. Straight up center line is harder, that finish can be an overhang to the right. Center finish is very hard overhang pull on left flake.


The narrow Lower Trail between 'Pee Break' and the Amphitheater passes this wall. Take upper footpath toward 'Pee Break' anchors, but make a left. Three Bears Gully nearby downhill.


Three new top bolts allow two ropes, including left-side dihedral jam route. Do not rig as three-point. Some rope-rub at upper ledge, or very long runners.

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By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is dirty. There is dirt and vegetation all over the lower section of this climb. That said, it has some fun moves and is reasonably long.

A good option for top-ropers, as the bolts are really easy to find and rig, with great three bears gully access.

Belay is in the trail, unfortunately. Not great for super-crowded days.

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