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The Buzzard Wall
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Arbor Day T 
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 
Buzzard Bait S,TR 
Buzzard Breath T,S 
Drop Zone S 
On the Wings of Buzzards T 
Rip Cord S 
Smooth as Silk T 
Super Smooth T 
Tail Feathers T 
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 

Buzzard Breath 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jacobs & Crowder, 1996
Page Views: 2,453
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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starting Buzzard's Breath. It's a long way to the ...

Description 

Wander up ledges and low overlap/roof, continue on edges passing bolts and a few gear placement to another roof, work left to the anchors.


Location 

Buzzard Wall, just to the right of the gully that separates this wall and Slab Area.

Protection 

Bolts, light rack, rap rings.


Photos of Buzzard Breath Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buzzard Breath, somewhere around the 4th bolt.
Buzzard Breath, somewhere around the 4th bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Still not at the first bolt, but the climbing is e...
BETA PHOTO: Still not at the first bolt, but the climbing is e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Once past the crux nice jugs to the top!
Once past the crux nice jugs to the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: the start is fun and the crux is well protected.
the start is fun and the crux is well protected.
Rock Climbing Photo: What Buzzard Breath Looks like from Below
BETA PHOTO: What Buzzard Breath Looks like from Below
Rock Climbing Photo: the begining of buzzard breath
the begining of buzzard breath
Rock Climbing Photo: following buzzard breath
following buzzard breath

Comments on Buzzard Breath Add Comment
Show which comments
By EL WRAY
From: fort myers, fl
Feb 6, 2008

this was my first lead ever. good climb. 60m rope allows for easy top rope or rappel. a .75 or 1 bd cam is nice for top overlap, but i usually bring just draws.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Aug 15, 2008

This route, now that it's clean, is more like 5.8 than the original 5.9 rating.

As to the description, there is no "work left to the anchors", but my descriptions are goofy sometimes too :)

BB is the first (left most) bolted route on the main face of the Buzzard Wall, to the right of the gulley that separates the Buzzard wall from the Slab. Climb up some sandy flat ledges to the ledge under the bulge, move up through the bulge past a couple of bolts, climb some slab moves past two more bolts and the wall gets steeper, move slightly left then straight up on big holds for a bit to a bolt in a dish, continue up to the exit bulge that's split by a crack (gear), pull that to the top and a pair of fixe ring anchors. As previously posted you can TR or rap with a 60m rope from these anchors. JJ
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Sep 13, 2008

OK Paul, 5.8+ ?
By Joey Wolfe
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

RadDawg, I'll agree. After I OS this I said to my partner, "Where was the 5.9?", his response was "You have been climbing at Sunset too much." So, I thought I was just was having a good day. This route is a blast and I really like the way it was bolted. A little heady after pulling the second bulge/steep section/crux, heading for the 'bolt in a dish'(which i didn't see until it was level with my shoulder) but safe.
By Kyle Lyons
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

You can walk along the ridge from the left side and set the first draw to eliminate ground fall danger. This makes it a much safer lead and is great for first leaders.
By Ezra Ellis
From: Hotlanta
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Probably 5.8 at the hardest IMO, a touch far to the first bolt, but the holds are jugs.
Thanks Jody for a great route!!!!!
I used a .75 Bd camalot between the 2 and 3rd bolts and a #2 at the top.
By Harrison Laird
From: Davis, CA
Jan 20, 2016

Great climb. Might be good to rappel this route and clean it off a bit. Five protection bolts / two anchor bolts. The horizontal between bolts 2/3 accepts a #.75 Camalot or Red Mastercam/TCU

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