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Seven Eleven Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bimbo Shrine S 
Butcher Man, The S 
Buzz Kill S 
Fairtracer T 
Fearless Symmetry S 
First Steps S 
Fuel Injector S 
Mr. Hollywood S 
Scenic Adult S 
Slash and Burn S 
Squirrelly Adventure S 
Sting, The S 
Tit Speed S 
Tony the Tiger S 

Buzz Kill 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Anderson
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: AndyJohnson on Aug 13, 2013

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is broken into 3 sections separated by good rests. The crux is climbing from bolt 2 to 4 and features some seriously small, sharp crimps and balance-intensive slab moves on smeared feet. The middle section of the climb is a little easier, but still requires some good technique. The final section features a traverse left to a difficult traverse back right and then up to the anchors.

Buzz Kill is just right of Slash and Burn on the smooth orang and black face. Bring along some some skin salve if you plan to take several burns on the crux in a day.

Protection 

10 bolts and 2-bolt anchor.

To reduce rope drag through the final difficult moves (and there will be rope drag), it would help to extend bolts 5 and 6 (far right bolts) and bolt 9 (far left bolt), though you should consider where a fall on an extended bolt 5 would leave you.


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By ChrisHau
May 26, 2015

Strange bolting near the top on this one - the redpoint crux involves a sharp rightwards traverse, meaning that you have a possibility of clotheslining yourself on your rope.

Heads up on some of the crimps/footchips on this one as well. Adventurous!