Buuveit Camp Area Rock Climbing

This ger camp is in a small half-moon valley in the southeastern side of Terlej National Park. There are at least 4 decent routes here, I was only there for 4 days of climbing, so each day my buddy and I tried to put up a new route.

The rock can be very loose and breaks off easily so we had to spend a ton of time cleaning, so only one pitch of one route was completed to the point where it was done as a clean trad lead. The others listed we attempted via top rope, with some cleaning, but never done start to finish as a trad climb.

We were working with some beginning climbers so we focused on easy routes. There are absolutely some 5.10c++ lines in the area, but we never attempted them.

Climate/Weather: Very open, no shade on the rock. Can get very windy and suffer from extreme cold in the winter.

As stated before, the rock is flakey. The freeze/thaw is extreme in Mongolia, annual temps from -60 to 90, and daily variations of up to 50-60 degrees. With no cloud cover or shade, the direct sun can cause freeze thaw even when the temps never get above 0. In may, it was not uncommon to go from -10 to 75 to 10 to 60 to -10 all within a 24 hour period. We often were able to pull hunks of rock off the mountain the size of basketballs with moderate hand strength. That being said, if you look around you can find places to put pro that are safe, but they are possible few and far between. Best bet is to bring lots of big gear, Camalot #3 and bigger, and stick to the large crack systems.

To the west of the camp is a large monolith that has some bolts that have ripped out and are hanging by chains. These were on a very slabby looking route we did not try and climb. Just north of this monolith are some short chimney routes that can be top roped. To the east of the camp is a large ridge line with one established trad route with potential for more. To the north of the camp is another ridge that I didn't explore much.