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Buttress Fly 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Buttress Fly


Right of Captain blueberry, look for a corner system to the left of the large ramp (the climb, The Ramp) in the middle of a dihedral formation. The climb is to the left of that. Crux is at the bottom and the route gets easier after that.


Bolts to chain anchors.

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By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Jackson's guide describes this route as just left of Liberace's anus with 2 bolts and a long run out to the liberace anchors. Well, we did this, and it was fairly run out down below with decking potential. The moves were decent but not super good. Pro up top is fine to finish the route.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The proper, original route may have been 2 bolts + gear, but if you don't have gear it's not unreasonable to finish on either climb to the left or the right at the top now. [edit: it sounds like it's been fully retrobolted recently- but I haven't been back]
By Andrew B. Ellis
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is currently bolted in a way that is pretty safe - have an attentive belay for first two closely spaced bolts. (as you should always have)
Surprisingly good movement, and definitely worth at least two stars. Wanders a bit, but is good fun! Feels 10b to me. I wanted to give it 2.5 stars, but figured 3 would balance out the ratings from when this was bolted sparingly.

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