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Buttermilks Main

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Saigon Boulder 
Sharma Traverse Boulder 
Stained Glass/Flyboy Area 
Sunshine Boulder 
Tut Boulder 
Upside Boulder 
Womb Boulder 

Buttermilks Main Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 37.3276, -118.5757 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 166,896
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2008
Forecast:
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Peabodies and their neighbors with a dusting o...

Description 

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.


* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *


Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.

Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'
Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'


Getting There 

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).

Rock Climbing Photo: Please don't walk here.
Please don't walk here.


Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

210 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',24],['3 Stars',91],['2 Stars',70],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',63],['V2-3',20],['V4-5',39],['V6-7',26],['V8-9',26],['V10-11',9],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Buttermilks Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Buttermilks Main:
Robinson's Rubber Tester   V0 4     Boulder   Cave Area : Robinson's Rubber Tester Bo...
Hero Roof   V0 4     Boulder, 14'   Iron Man Area : Hero Roof Boulder
Good Morning Sunshine   V1 5 PG13     Boulder, 22'   Sunshine Boulder
Buttermilk Stem   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Buttermilk Stem Area : Buttermilk Stem Boulder
The Hunk   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   The Hunk
Sheepherder   V2 5+     Boulder   The Loaf
Green Wall Essential   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Green Wall Boulder
Birthday Direct   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Birthday Boulders
King Tut   V3 6A     Boulder, 17'   Tut Boulder
Funky Tut   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Tut Boulder
Iron Man Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder   Iron Man Area : Iron Man Boulder
Bowling Pin   V4 6B     Boulder   Bowling Pin Boulder
Flyboy Arete   V5 6C     Boulder   Stained Glass/Flyboy Area
Leary/Bard Arete   V5 6C     Boulder, 18'   Corner Boulders
Bowling Pin Sit   V6- 7A     Boulder, 15'   Bowling Pin Boulder
Green Wall Center   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   Green Wall Boulder
Saigon   V6 7A     Boulder, 22'   Saigon Boulder
High Plains Drifter   V7 7A+     Boulder, 35'   Drifter/Smoking Boulder
Soul Slinger   V9 7C     Boulder, 14'   Cave Area : Soul Slinger Boulder
Southwest Arete   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Peabody Boulders : Grandma Peabody Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Buttermilks Main

Featured Route For Buttermilks Main
Rock Climbing Photo: The Southeast Arete of Grandma Peabody.

SE Arete 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Grandma Peabody Boulder
This line is either a 5.10 solo or toprope. An awesome, bouldery move down low pulling onto the arete (over sloping ground and a pile of cheater stones) is the physical crux, but the top is what packs the punch. I've onsight freesoloed several 5.9s and 10s, particularly in Eldorado Canyon, Colo., and I had to take a long pause and some big breaths before the sequential, steep-slab finish on this one.This route provided one of my most rewarding experiences during my four-day visit, but I won't sa...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Buttermilks Main Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'
Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'
Rock Climbing Photo: BH milkin a Buttermilk, photo: Bob Horan Collectio...
BH milkin a Buttermilk, photo: Bob Horan Collectio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttermilks Main Overview
BETA PHOTO: Buttermilks Main Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Frozen Pool and Pope's Hat from top of The Loaf. P...
Frozen Pool and Pope's Hat from top of The Loaf. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rain storm slowly moving across the boulder field.
Rain storm slowly moving across the boulder field.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Peabody Boulders and White Mountain Peak
The Peabody Boulders and White Mountain Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: rock wren at the milks
rock wren at the milks
Rock Climbing Photo: Top-out at Buttermilks Main
Top-out at Buttermilks Main
Rock Climbing Photo: For most, the main attraction of the area:  The bo...
For most, the main attraction of the area: The bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at 'Buttermilks Main', from high on the mor...
A look at 'Buttermilks Main', from high on the mor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttermilks
Buttermilks
Rock Climbing Photo: Petroglyph Pig. Photo by Blitzo.
Petroglyph Pig. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: crew warming up in the 'milks
crew warming up in the 'milks
Rock Climbing Photo: Please don't walk here.
Please don't walk here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering in the Buttermilks at sunset.
Bouldering in the Buttermilks at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Basin Mountain from the Buttermilks, Sierra Eastsi...
Basin Mountain from the Buttermilks, Sierra Eastsi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Original topo for the Peabody (Buttermilk) Boulder...
BETA PHOTO: Original topo for the Peabody (Buttermilk) Boulder...
Rock Climbing Photo: Birthday section. Photo by Blitzo.
Birthday section. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Buttermilks
The Buttermilks
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Buttermilks Main
Bouldering at Buttermilks Main
Rock Climbing Photo: The Smoking Boulders. Photo by Blitzo.
The Smoking Boulders. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering in the Buttermilks Photo by Jay Droeger
Bouldering in the Buttermilks Photo by Jay Droeger
Rock Climbing Photo: dad running up a fun moderate
dad running up a fun moderate
Rock Climbing Photo: West side of 'Buttermilks Main'
West side of 'Buttermilks Main'

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Buttermilks Main Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 27, 2010
Please don't camp at the boulders or near the parking areas! There is great camping just 100 yards across the road, up or down buttermilk road. Fires and broken glass suck to clean up after you have left. Camping at the parking area detracts from the view and overall experience others have as well as taking up parking spots forcing others to park on the scrub further deteriorating the area.

TAMPON APPLICATORS ARE NOT BIODEGRADABLE!!! STAY AT THE GYM.
By Fueco
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 26, 2016
Thinking about this makes me miss the 'Milks. It's been a while since I've climbed there. I drank my first ever beer while camped under Grandpa Peabody, and this was my first bouldering specific road trip back in 1997 for Spring Break!

But yeah, times, and rules have changed. Back in those days you were lucky if you saw a few other people with pads out there.

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