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Buttermilk Stem Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Dot 
Brian's Project 
Buttermilk Stem 
Buttermilk Stem SDS 
Matt's Project 
Matt's Project Sit 
Problem A 
Unnamed (Brian's Finish) 
Unnamed Slab/Arete 

Buttermilk Stem 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 8,466
Submitted By: AWinters on Mar 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (181)
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Buttermilk Stem (V1)

Description 

A must-do for the Buttermilks visitor.

Stand-start with wide palms and make a tricky first move to get your right foot on (crux). Stem your way up to the good fin and jugs to the easy but great top-out.

Sit-start is considered v4 and requires some creativity/funk.

Location 

South face of the Buttermilk Stem Boulder, right side.

Protection 

Pads


Photos of Buttermilk Stem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Buttermilk Stem Boulder', South face Topo.
BETA PHOTO: 'Buttermilk Stem Boulder', South face Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttermilk Stem
Buttermilk Stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse getting his stem game on before the storm hi...
Jesse getting his stem game on before the storm hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3 of me climbing the stem
3 of me climbing the stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost done now
Almost done now
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth working his way up the Stem
Seth working his way up the Stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth on the Stem
Seth on the Stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttermilk Stem
Buttermilk Stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Hardest v1 ever!!! Working out the kincks in the s...
Hardest v1 ever!!! Working out the kincks in the s...

Comments on Buttermilk Stem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tavis Ricksecker
Sep 21, 2008

For the life of me, I can not figure out how to do the SDS.. ?
By Ray Davalos
From: Encinitas, CA
Dec 28, 2010

im right there with ya man
By PrrdyLady
Feb 19, 2012

Hardest v1 ever! Short beta requires strong stem at the base with a tiny foot crystal for the left and a hand/foot match with the right. Trust the right foot and press it out until you catch the decent side pull. Jugs and jugy pintches from then on.
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Feb 27, 2012

By Brian Horlick
From: Laramie, WY
Mar 24, 2013

Tricky for the short! I found that a drop knee helped a lot in bringing up the right foot.
By cbtacy
Aug 11, 2013

The sit is a classic illustration of a local sandbag.

Once someone shows you the beta and you get the moves dialed - it actually is, in fact, only V4. But I've watched folks who climb V10 onsight struggle with this puppy.

The best part? It's actually GREAT climbing.
By Ray Davalos
From: Encinitas, CA
Nov 12, 2013

3 years later.... Did the sit!
By Phil Chai
From: Austin, TX
May 8, 2014

Did both the stand and the sit-start. So classic...
By Andrew Child
Sep 7, 2016

This route is sure to infuriate any climber with an ego. It took me 3 trips (spread out across a few years) to get up this one despite climbing well above the grade, very humbling experience.