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Butterflies Arete 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: kenr on Feb 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: "parking slab" from SW A - Butterflies A...


Sustained thoughtful arete moves for the first twenty feet (with sidepulls and footholds on both sides of the crest). Then easier fun moves up the "razor" to the top.

It's interesting enough to start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.
. . (Variation: Starting directly on the arete also goes, but significantly harder than the rest of the route).
Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.

As of 2016 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).


About fifteen feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

The Butterflies arete forms the left side of the narrow gully / wide crack of the "Parking Slot" route.

see Sector Topo photo
and Left side Topo photo


Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos of Butterflies Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A - Butterflies Arete route vA - direct start vari...
BETA PHOTO: A - Butterflies Arete route vA - direct start vari...

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By kenr
Feb 18, 2016

Our local indoor gym sets some very fun moderate-difficulty Arete routes. I always tell people to be sure to climb and enjoy those moderate indoor arete routes, because they'll never find an interesting outdoor arete at a difficulty less than 5.11.
But now I've found this arete of the butterflies.

. (Not at all like l'Arête des Papillons).

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