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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,061
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Jul 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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First bolt


Straight up the black water stain on the right end of the wall. Pull a mind blowing undercling with no feet to a long reach over the small roof to a crimper then up milder ground to a fun mid 10ish move in the middle then another just below chain anchors.


Between Zagnut and Lemonhead up the black water stain. At the far right end of the wall, the last route on the left side of the big bush that heads up to the deep upside down "V" notch roof.



Photos of Butterfinger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the first crux
Start of the first crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching for the clipping pocket hole.
Reaching for the clipping pocket hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: There's CHiPs in there..
There's CHiPs in there..

Comments on Butterfinger Add Comment
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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 26, 2010

It might take a day or two to dry out after any rain. There's a big patch of grassy moss stuff way up top that drains down the black water stain but if it's dry, the black area isn't slick at all. It was actively dripping/running yesterday when the rest of the wall was bone dry.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 26, 2010

yeah!! go daryl! :)
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 20, 2010

Thanks Geir! The fourth bolt has been moved left about a foot to accommodate the variation that some folks are taking to pull the roof. Apparently I'm the only weirdo that climbs it straight on. ;) The new bolt location basically keeps the climber from having to pull the roof [crux] again if he/she blows the move after the roof to get to the bolt. Now you can clip from the "rest" after the roof regardless of how you sequence it out. Thanks for the input Mike, Tim and Tony!
By John Steiger
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climb Daryl -- best of the routes I did during our week in the Sweet/Trad Rocks area: well-bolted, good rock, thuggish crux with great position followed by two tricky and attention-getting sections to the chains. I also really liked Everlasting Gobstopper and Hot Tamale, but this one is the gem at Sweet Rock -- keep it up DA. Found it to be completely dry (on 4/13) a few days after a reportedly good rain storm.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Nov 30, 2011

Thanks John for the kind words and feedback! Really glad to hear you enjoyed it.d
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 21, 2013

Congrats on your send Angel!! Your redpoint looked very clean and calm. No screaming, yelling.. just slow, smooth movements. Great work!
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 1, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks D! Good Route! Up to the next :)

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