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Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 25, 2014

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Description 

An interesting adventure in weird climbing moves. Wander the up the face surrounding the crack finding the line of least resistance. The large crack narrows and forms a steep right facing corner. Step around this to the left then straight up to fixed anchors.

The majority of this route is bolted, however, I think with a couple large cams, in additions to a standard rack, most of the bolts are not needed. As is, the climb is safe, I just thought I include my observation for the people who prefer not to clip bolts. I may go back to see if I can keep it G rated....that is if i can ever afford a #5 and #6 camalot....

Location 

Look for the bolted OW crack with a large chockstone near the bottom.

Protection 

Draws plus a few cams to 1". Bolt Anchors.


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By Brian Murphy
Aug 25, 2015

Enjoyed this one. There are some pieces on this that sound pretty hollow. My friend ripped off a decent sized chunk (~2' x .5') right near the beginning.

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