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Butter Bars 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Manny Rangel, Mark Geikenjoyner
Season: winter
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Jan 13, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Mark on final traverse of Butter Bars.

Description 

I thought the crux was moving left under the roof; getting established there was committing.

Location 

Begin on far right at a hand crack through brittle rock. Boulder up this to a wide crack that eases up to a short traverse left then a squeeze to the main roof. Traverse under this to the ledge and belay here (clip bolt first). Bring your second and have him do the face moves (with bolt) to gain the arete. Chain anchor.

Protection 

Doubles to single #4,#5 cams and nuts; slings etc


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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Jan 13, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The bolt on the face is not confidence inspiring. Hopefully it will be replaced and a permanent anchor established as a decent option for all routes on West Point Dome. The down climb isn't bad but still easy 5th class. Head down and right toward the west.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 31, 2016

Done and done.

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