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The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Climax Control S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mono Loco  S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 


YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jim Suffecool, Mike Stewart, 1997
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2009

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Start on the orange arete and work your way up to a large hold on the arete. From here, find a way to get yourself up to the point where the arete bulges out, looking for a good hold out right to make the next clip (crux). From here, head up and to the left side of the arete to reach a crack system and a good stance. The climbing from this point on is probably 5.10d. Continue up the crack system and follow the holds out right to reach a flake under the roof. Undercling your way out right to the edge of the arete to a great stance. Climb straight up the arete and traverse back left on to the face to pass the last bolt and up to the anchors.


This route begins on the arete to the left of the start for Chunky Monkey, 5.12b. From M.E.N.S.A, continue along the cliff,away from the Brain until you reach an arete.


7 bolts, shuts.

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By Brad Leneis
Nov 10, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

As mentioned in the guidebook, grabbing the first draw and yarding through slick V4/V5 crux makes this a nice, non-tweaky 5.11a. A long draw is nice on the bolt above the roof.

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