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Butt Luscious 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 3,441
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Fun upper part... steep enough to be interesting b...

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  • Description 

    This climb starts on the upper tier of the Clock Tower, a bit left of the mid-point on the crag. A single hard pull (5.11c) up a blankish start leads to a good ledge and a very long reach to a decent horn, a very height-dependent move, and the crux at 5.11+ (but look at the comments). Haul up over the horn to great 5.11 face climbing on excellent edges and deep, incut flakes.

    It is a great climb worth all three stars for the climbing moves, continuity, and quality of the stone.

    Protection 

    QDs only. 8-10 QDs and something for the two bolt anchor at the top.


    Photos of Butt Luscious Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the crux reach....
    BETA PHOTO: Just after the crux reach....

    Comments on Butt Luscious Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 16, 2002

    I couldn't detect any chipped holds and the bolts are some of the better spaced at the Sport Park. I'm tall so the reach was easy, so in my book it is 11c and gets *** Cory
    By Aron Quiter
    Administrator
    From: Oakland, CA
    Sep 6, 2002

    I am not so tall at 5'9"... But this isn't even height dependent. This is a good 11d route for someone of my size, but the people that are 5'2" aren't going to be doing the same move as those over 6', not that they usually can on reachy routes. I don't think this was a chipped route, and was a fairly interesting and burney route for me.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 14, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I'm going to take a LOT of heat for this, but it is my honest opinion. This climb is VERY severely overgraded. It's fun but very overgraded. Maybe something broke off and left better holds, maybe it just suited my style, maybe I had the best day of my climbing career, but 5.12a/b should not be a cake walk for me - it should be on par with my most desperate on-sights ever. It wasn't. I'd put it on par with a soft 5.11 or hard 5.10. That said, big moves to big holds. I have very long arms and big shoulders. It you are 6' (I'm 5'10" with a +6" ape index) this should go well.

    Really fun move. Please tell me that the opening undercling was real?!?!? It looked and felt drilled to me!

    I honestly thought it was 5.10d. I thought about putting 11a/b, because that would stir the pot too much, but my honest opinion is my honest opinion and I don't want to mince that too much.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 16, 2003

    TB - yhe ape index does help to soften the move. I think the 5.12 rating was noted in Rolofson's guide, and I used that as a reference. Personally, I don't think the move is 5.10. Mid to upper 11 probably fits.
    By non
    Aug 26, 2007

    Okay...the fragile ego downgraders that frequent this site need to remember that we are talking about moderate routes (11+ through 12-). Does Tony B and his other cast of middle-aged weaklings need to be reminded that there is nothing cutting edge about this grade range? What is their motive to downgrade? To remind the gym rat with six months experience that they haven't scratched the surface of advanced climbing? If you find yourself downgrading 12- routes, you probably need to take up another sport, because you just don't matter anymore!
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 4, 2008
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    I didn't like this climb much, I thought the opening move was hard, and would be significantly harder for normal size (reach) people. The rest was pretty much easier, but not gimmee. Good line, not so great climbing.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Jul 13, 2011

    The climb is overrated. The Sport Park is overrated. Hell, Boulder Canyon itself is almost always consistently overrated.

    And?

    And if an area's grades are habitually, consistently soft (or sandbagged, for that matter) AT WHATEVER THE GRADE, then it falls to the community to make a stand and address that, inject some objectivity, as best as that can be acomplished.

    So bravo down- and up-graders. As I see it, that's the whole damn point of this Mountain Project.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 22, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 23, 2015

    Consensus is 5.11c for BL, but the numbers are still all over the charts. How does 5.11+ work for consensus?
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 27, 2015

    Harder than "Higher Calling" at Empire seems a bit of stretch.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 13, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Richard,
    Long time no see. I hope all is going well.

    There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at.

    Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multiple voices are valid, and that no single voice or opinion should or can dictate the opinion of others. I defend my interpretation of the route but don't expect others to necessarily share it.

    I don't think it's a big deal to have a consensus rating different, or even far different, than the initial posting. Reason being, at least that is a "flag" that there may be something subjective in the grading or perception of it.

    Have a good one, and hope to see you out at the crags some time again!
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 13, 2015

    Does this discussion about each other's personalities and egos really belong in comments about a route? Take it to PMs.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 28, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Definitely a harder climb than Leave It To Beaver. As hard or harder than Turkey Neck Direct at Stepping Stones & certainly move powerful. If you are 6 foot 4 inches tall, I can believe that this route is 5.11c. Gotta say if you climb 5.14, it is easy to rate this 5.11, if you even know the difference between 5.11 & 5.11d. There are a few people that don't climb 5.13 or 5.14, that rated this climb between .10c & 5.11a/b. I'd love to watch them climb this route, just to confirm it's as easy for them as they rate it.

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