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Butt Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broomhillda S 
Butt Crack T 
Going Greek S 
Left Cheek S 
Little Flatulence S 
Matillda S 
Nose, The T 

Butt Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 1, 2014

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Climb the steep, fractured crack above the alcove. Rather than start in the depths of the mini-cave at the base of the crack, you can also start on the face and clip the first bolt of Going Greek. Once in the crack proper, make some steep moves before the angle eases considerably and the climbing becomes juggy and relatively easy. Watch what you grab as some of the holds appear suspect and may be less-than-permanent. Moving left and right at different spots may help keep the grade at 5.8 to avoid cruxy spots. A 3 bolt anchor is found at the 100 foot height, just right of the crack and below the ledge with the large pine tree.


This ascends the obvious, fractured crack above the alcove from which the bolted 5.8 and 5.9 sport routes start.


Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, although you could place #4 and #5 sized Camalots if you wish.

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