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Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Butt Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Ryan Lauck, Erik Gillis, Janson Evans
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Ryan Lauck on Jun 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Front and center, once you see it you cant unsee i...


Great jams the whole way but plenty of other things to grab onto if you dont like to get your hands dirty. After the crack pinches shut, your difficulties are behind you. You can stop at a ledge at the top of the "cheeks" or keep going for another 30 feet of 5th class along the blocky arete to the top of the formation where there are better anchor options.


The middle of the long eastern-most wall, look for the full moon.


Protection is a pretty good idea. The yawning fissure eats hand to fist size pieces. Plenty of smaller cracks and a couple large blocks to sling at the top of the formation for an anchor.

Walk off to the North.

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By Janson
Jun 16, 2010

Great starter climb for those not looking to be too exposed, great find ryan.
By Ryan Lauck
From: Farmington, UT
Jun 16, 2010

We still need to clean up some brush right at the base and maybe knock a couple more loose blocks off (one was poised right above my belayers head and I didnt dare touch it). Erik wants to name all the rest of the routes on the wall after farts.

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