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Butt Crack Tower 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Paul S on Jan 23, 2015

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Description 

This is a very fun OW route up the backside of Butt Crack Tower. Once you're back there, the route is obvious. It's not your average, straightforward OW, but there's still plenty of squirming to do. The crux is above a chimney section. There's a nice crescent hold to help get you through it. However, to make it a little more interesting, the hold is most likely going to snap off at some point! When the hold breaks, it'll probably be around a 5.11 OW move.

Location 

Butt Crack Tower is the obvious tower on the right as you are hiking down canyon from the upper trailhead. The route described here is on the backside.

Protection 

A #4 is nice to have for the belayer. Other than that, I think we used one #5 and the rest of the gear is #6s except for the chimney section, where you could use a #4 Bigbro, and the crux, where the 9" Valley Giant is perfect.


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