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Canines & Lobo Wall
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Foreign Affair S 
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Butchwax 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Henze, Kevin Carmichael, & Tejal Parikh (1990)
Season: Shade After 11 AM
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Dec 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Butchwax

Description 

Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts. When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform. Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains.

Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.

Location 

Butchwax is located on the third pinnacle from the west. Butchwax climbs the east face while Flat Top climbs the south.

Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are stamped with the initials 'BWM'. Since the anchors are recessed, long slings and rappelling are recommended.

While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.


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