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> Canines Wall
Butchwax
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Canines Wall
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Bierhenkels For Bazzi's S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butchwax S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drivers License S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flat Top S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hippo Space Invaders S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hippos Are Pottamus Too S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Leaners Permit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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True Grit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Chris Henze, Kevin Carmichael, & Tejal Parikh (1990) |
| Page Views: | 681 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Dec 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts. When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform. Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains.
Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.
Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.
Location
Butchwax is located on the third pinnacle from the west. Butchwax climbs the east face while Flat Top climbs the south.
Protection
6 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are stamped with the initials 'BWM'. Since the anchors are recessed, long slings and rappelling are recommended.
While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.
While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.
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