Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Chocolate Factory
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andy Man Can, The T 
Augustus Gloop S 
Babinski sign  S 
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 
Bleak December S 
Breakin the Law S 
Butane Junky S 
Buttercup S 
Cat's Demise S 
Charlie T 
Chocolate River S 
Climactic Crush S 
Dainty Butterfly, The S 
Death by Chocolate S 
Easy Pickins T 
EGBG S 
Enkidu S 
Fatman S 
Fickelgruber T 
For Your Health S 
Gene Wilder S 
Gilgamesh S 
Glass Elevator, The S 
Gobstopper S 
Golden Ticket S 
Grandpa Joe S 
Grumpalump S 
Hip to the Jive S 
Icebreaker S 
J Rat's Back S 
Juggernaut, The S 
Loompa S 
Malice S 
Mike Teavee S 
Molten S 
Mr. P. S 
Naked S 
One Side Makes You Taller S 
Oompa S 
Pure Imagination S 
Robotic Thumb S 
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 
Snarf Victory S 
Snozzberries S 
Squirrelworker S 
Strongyloides T 
Sugar Rush S 
Sunday Night Cockfights S 
Swedish Fish S 
Team Tough on Tour S 
Theobroma S 
Throbbing Emotions S 
Through the Looking Glass T 
Toxicodendron S 
Willy Wonka S 
Wobbler S 
Wonkaholic S 

Butane Junky 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Troy Davidson
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Peter Howes on Mar 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

If masochistic, burly, slab climbing is your thing, then why are you visiting the chocolate factory? Regardless, this one is for you!

An amazing route that I unfortunately don't have much info on. The Ray Ellington guidebook reads something like "This line will probably shut you down, and probably make you cry". With a description like that you have to get on it, right?

The aggressive start only yields to more aggressive slab, delicate climbing, pinching tiny iron oxide deposits, an amazing technical challenge! The crux for me was either the awkward steep mantle, or clipping bolt 5/6... hate to take a real whip on this guy!

This one definitely reminds you why you love/hate climbing. Its ok if it makes you cry

Location 

The menacing slab just to the left of the wonkaholic corner. pretty obvious

Protection 

10 bolts?


Comments on Butane Junky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2015

This climb is really good despite the reputation. You just have to like slab climbing to appreciate it. Feels like a more secure version of Watt's Tots at Smith Rock. I thought it felt a little sandy for 12a.
By Clinton Miller
Nov 29, 2015

The guidebook description just made me want it more. Clipping the second bolt was desperate for me, I climbed the arête and pre hung the draws. Final roof still requires careful footwork. This took me several tries over a few days. Guidebook gives Snozzberries same grade. Not even close. 12b?
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Dec 3, 2015

Snozzberries is considered very soft for 12a. I wouldn't use it as your benchmark.