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Dude's Throne
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Any Doodle Do S 
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Buster Brown S,TR 
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Dude's Jam Crack T 
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Howdy Doody Time S 
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In Harmsen's Way S 
Jolly Rancher S 
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 
Jugs Out For The Lads S 
Major Dude S 
Major Party Plan S 
Mighty Aphrodite S 
Missing Link T,S 
Open Space Cowboy S 
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Red Hot Chili Peppers S 
Short Dude S 
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Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 

Buster Brown 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 6/2005
Season: Shade until 11am or so in summer.
Page Views: 4,664
Submitted By: SteveZ on Jul 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Buster Brown.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route.

Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained route with no distinct crux.


This route begins up a tight hands crack to the right of Dude's Jam Crack. The top half of the route has a distinct brown streak.


12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Buster Brown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great times at Dude's Throne!
Great times at Dude's Throne!
Rock Climbing Photo: Face climbing gold.
Face climbing gold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Terry O'Neill redpointing.
Terry O'Neill redpointing.
Rock Climbing Photo: A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice crack climbing.
Nice crack climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb.
Cool climb.

Comments on Buster Brown Add Comment
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By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 29, 2012

Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall!
By Mark Rolofson
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route with technical climbing. The hard climbing starts with a tricky traverse, followed by a beautiful dike. A thin crux leads to an underclimg. The second crux ascends a discontinuous finger crack. The final redpoint crux is just having enough forearm strength left to make the last thin face moves and reach the top of the juggy flake. One of my favorite vertical face routes.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 21, 2014

Does this route have a chipped hold? It looks like one, feels like one... kinda leads me to think it is one, which detracts one star from the quality.

I wonder if that move would go without it. I think it would, but bump the grade up a letter or two.
By Laura Capps
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route is some seriously fun face climbing! The crux sequence is extremely reachy for me but definitely doable even at 5'1". Very technical, but positive holds all the way. Definitely get on this route if you are here.
By Brett S.
From: Colorado
Oct 5, 2015

This route looks as good as it climbs. It arcs to the right on an orange splash of granite on very thin, technical face holds. Some of the best face climbing I've ever done. The crux is for sure just linking the intricate and involved moves on the headwall together, there isn't any really single hard stopper move. A classic in my book.
Phil, are you talking about the first crimp on the headwall? The one that you match on to begin the low rightward traverse? Major bummer if this is chipped. Maybe Mr. Rolofson will enlighten us....
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Nov 3, 2015

Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless.
From: Nederland, CO
Aug 12, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Awesome route, closer to 13a than 12d. Amazing vertical climbing, first 6 bolts are a good warm-up. Do it!

I am also curious about the possible chipped hold... the small crimp you match before traversing onto the face at the 6th bolt. I agree it could probably go without it, but it would be much more spicy. Mark, will you shed some light on this?
By ebethreegs
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Perhaps the most pleasurable sport climb I've been on. It was an excellent recommendation from some friends. Thin, technical and sustained. Multiple mini-cruxes with no showstopper crux except the building pump. Do it in the shade. Excellent climb for a first 13a. I was sad when it was over. I want more.

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