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Buster Brown 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Paula Chambers & Darrel Hensel, 1983
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Blitzo on Apr 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: "Buster Brown". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

On the left side of the face, climb the right-leaning dike.

Protection 

Small to medium pro, fixed pin and a bolt.


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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 28, 2008

There is now a fixed pin about halfway between the second horizontal crack and the bolt.
By Bob Gaines
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

You can get a #1 metolious cam in a horizontal crack above the bolt for better pro at the crux (which is the last ten feet). I replaced the bolt with a nice new one (2007).
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Super fun although the final moves seem harder than 5.9. Fixed pin seems bomber and certainly helps as you work the somewhat awkward moves up the dike towards to the bolt. The dike has great features and finger slot as you approach the top which as Bob states eats up a blue Metolious perfectly. Then the fun begins as the next 2 out of 4 moves should have your attention. Good old fashion fun with dikes. :)

Brown Sugar anchor on top available - hangers only.

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