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Busted By Dewey 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Walt Whetham, Hagen Telg, Jason Halladay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 982
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Getting started on the route. May 2014. In the spr...

Description 

Climb up huge cobbles by a big flake before it gets steeper. Super fun.

Location 

Fifth route in from the river

Protection 

10 bolts to anchor


Photos of Busted By Dewey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Late afternoon night as Walt climbs Busted by Dewe...
Late afternoon night as Walt climbs Busted by Dewe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising through the sea of cobbles on "Buste...
Cruising through the sea of cobbles on "Buste...

Comments on Busted By Dewey Add Comment
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By skelldify
Jul 30, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Route is prolly a letter grade harder (and 1 star better) if you don't touch the huge flake.
By tim naylor
Sep 18, 2015

last bolt could be pulling out. it had about 1 1/4" of threads sticking out and the whole stud spun when trying to tighten with fingers. excellent route maybe a little more or heavy handed cleaning? thanks for the great crag.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 19, 2015

Thanks for the report, Tim. We used 3.5" wedge bolts on most of these routes so there should be a good bit of steel still in the hole but I'll take a look at it next time we're out there.

We got super aggro with the cleaning and spent A LOT of time per route working stuff loose. I think the rock is just barely good enough for climbing so it'll keep on cleaning up. That said, if anyone wants to get after it with some more cleaning on any of these routes, have at it!
By tim naylor
Sep 28, 2015

thanks. I am sure this area took a ton of work to clean. thankless work, most people just complain about one thing or another. I was just trying to make it clear that holds are still coming off and climbers should be careful out there. I see a lot of newer climbers that just pull on anything within reach, no helmets and belaying directly below the climber. Not a good combo out here. THIS CRAG IS NOT TO BE MISSED IF YOU ARE IN THE AREA. JUST BE AWARE, LIKE ANY NEW CRAG. THANKS AGAIN.

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