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6. The Arete Area
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Business Trip 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: RW goes over the upper crux

Description 

Climb #19 in the Bowman Guide

One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff!


START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.

P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8

Descent - rap the route with two 60 m ropes......or...

"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arête out on the slab.
"

NOTE- It MAY (? !) also be possible to reach the aforementioned pine tree with a single 70m. Anybody know for sure?

Protection 

Draws - lots ( about 10 ?)


Photos of Business Trip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Business Trip
BETA PHOTO: Business Trip
Rock Climbing Photo: Business Trip
BETA PHOTO: Business Trip
Rock Climbing Photo: The really nice middle section
BETA PHOTO: The really nice middle section
Rock Climbing Photo: At Bolt #2, heading for the piton in the crack
BETA PHOTO: At Bolt #2, heading for the piton in the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: RW gets down to business on the opening moves of &...
BETA PHOTO: RW gets down to business on the opening moves of &...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Business Trip
BETA PHOTO: Start of Business Trip

Comments on Business Trip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob A
Aug 27, 2016

You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains climbers left of the arête out on the slab.

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