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Bushes of Baelzebub 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,881
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 15, 2001

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Tara Reed on pitch one... sweet.

Private Property MORE INFO >>>


First obvious, wide crack system to climber's right of Crack of Anticipation (Classic Dihedral), about 30m and slightly uphill.

Climbs the left side of a pillar and then hops right to the main system and continues to bear right at all choices. 2 pitches; belay where convenient or at fixed anchors for the sport climb next to it (minor traverses required). Cruxes involve leaning wide OW and pulling over a very, very loose block at bad fixed gear with wasps in the cracks.

Walkoff south or rap with 60m cord to chains 50' up and 25' climber's left of route.


Bring a set of cams to #3 and a set of stoppers. 0.75-1.5" extra gear is useful, as is a second or third #2 Camalot. No fixed gear on the route. A long sling wraps a tree for a top anchor.

Photos of Bushes of Baelzebub Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck again.
Chuck again.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Grossman on the "left" variation. ...
Chuck Grossman on the "left" variation. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zak forges on.
Zak forges on.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Weller negotiates the slabby runout section ...
Shaun Weller negotiates the slabby runout section ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber- Julie V.; Photo- Jay V.
Climber- Julie V.; Photo- Jay V.

Comments on Bushes of Baelzebub Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 30, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2002

Just did Bushes yesterday - at least the first pitch. We went LEFT above the second belay, not right, I think we were off route. But, not sure. Successful lead, but the hands, feet and pro got really scarce - lot's of friction. Place a weak nut that fell out as I climbed above it - oh well, nothing else to choose from. Great climb though, but wicked rope drag.

My Advice: Stay right, as the route description suggests - but left was a great challenge.
By Brad Huddleston
Mar 16, 2003

Hubbel's book is merely a guide for climbing this area and is a window into places that until recently I was unaware even existed. If you want to squabble over the parking lot was 1 mile or 1.2 miles thats your choice but I've found a multitude of new routes and climbing areas based on his book. Nobody's perfect not even you Mr. Anonymous Coward.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 25, 2004

The left variation is a lot of fun albeit a little scary. If we are talking about the same thing, it follows a thin diagonaling seam out left to another crack system.

I used my nut tool to clean out a ton of pine needles and dirt (it seemed like it had never been done before at the time). After the gardening, I found good pro. The moves across the slab are great, but the next crack was pretty dirty and weird to protect (or maybe I was out of the right gear?) It felt like 9+ was valid.
By Gabe
Jun 4, 2004

I wonder how often this anonymous coward gets himself in trouble with his mouth. The guide book isn't that bad. It is rather useful for learning more of the many routes in the South Platte area. I am sure one day coward will get what he deserves
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I placed a #4 Camalot on both pitches. A second #3 Camalot was nice to have for the anchor at the end of pitch 1. The route was fun, awkward at times, but definitely worthwhile. Two 60 meter ropes necessary for a single rap from the bolts to the left of P2.
By Buff Johnson
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun 2 pitch climb. The beginning section of the first pitch - don't fall. Just when you think you got sandbagged, these beautiful jugs just beckon you to keep going. I was never so happy to see a good set of jugs. The next section has a great crack system & other stuff to get you to the first belay (trad gear & with a stance for 2). At this point you will see the Motor Mouth anchor chain up and right. Either escaping up & down right or straight right (unprotected) is about 5.9.

For the second pitch, take the right crack & crank the crux; then move up & left to the anchor.

2 raps back down, don't use a 50m. A single 70m will run all the way to the second belay if the leader can fly through the first pitch. Please don't go near the house up top.

Agree that the larger cam is helpful protection, but not necessary to keep one handy for the belay.

Doesn't see near as much traffic as Classic, so it has better quality friction. If it just had better feet position.
By Andrew Ingraham
From: Conifer
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb. First pitch eats up nuts. A #4 Camalot protected the short offwidth section on pitch two perfectly, and I used a red TCU to protect the upper crux. Didn't see the big loose block in the description. Climb seemed a bit slippery in spots.
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Dec 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Another fun route on the Bucksnort slabs. Start of the route in winter can be very interesting though, seeing as there has been ice for about the first 8 feet of the line. Start can also be wet in the summer but it isn't really a problem.

11/30/09 -- Did the left variation, definitely harder and sketchier than the right. Think it is .9+ - .10-. Piton right above what I thought was the crux. Pink tri-cam protects the crux well.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 16, 2008

First ascent I believe was done by Dave and Chris Bell.

I was just told I'm wrong on this. Dave and Chris did the FA of "Out and About" Don't know off hand who did "Bushes"
From: Wherever we park!
Oct 21, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Went left for pitch 2. Definitely a legitimate variation. Tricky gear. Felt like a .10 move or two on it. There's a very old piton that I couldn't resist clipping about 15 or 20 feet from the anchors. I also used a 4 twice on this (I pulled it out below me to reduce drag and was very happy about that at the crux right before the anchors).

Not to be overlooked!
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 24, 2009

I did this today for the first time in maybe fifteen years. What a great climb! Even wet. We only did the first pitch though. Anyhow a worthy crack with lots of varied types of moves.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 13, 2010

Can be climbed as one pitch with a 60m rope, and judicious use of slings can minimize rope drag. Good pro throughout if you stay on route.

The OW crux felt like fair 5.8, but the awkward upper crux about 10m below the anchors felt kinda stiff for the grade. #11 hex protects the OW if you don't have a #4 cam.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed the "1st pitch" then traversed about 15 ft right to chain anchors for the adjacent sport climb which Stewart Green's new Colorado guidebook says is 95 ft above the ground. I rappeled down from those anchors, but it was longer than 95 ft. I had a 70m rope and on rappel from the anchors and it just barely reached the ground. 60m would have come up significantly short.
By Clay Jensen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2013

Awesome climb, do it as one long pitch! Huge pitch, huge fun.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 13, 2013

Definitely take a #4. It is about 195 ft from the anchors at the top back to the ground (double 60m ropes will get the job done in one rap). Splitting it in two pitches works well, since there's a very comfortable belay ledge about halfway up.
By Kurtis Anderson
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A fun crack! We decided to break the climb into two short pitches.... The first pitch stops at a natural belay ledge maybe 50' - 60' up (no chains; great place to build a bomber anchor though!). The second pitch continues to chase the crack for another 50' or so, then it traverses right to the 3 bolt anchor just before a diagonal roof. I think it is better break up the "first pitch" in to two pitches, to avoid a potential for MASSIVE rope drag if you don't have many long slings to compensate. Unfortunately, we got rained out just as we started to rappel off and couldn't do the classic 5.7 we came to Bucksnort for :/

I would say the beginning 50' is a tad bit stiffer than 5.8+, so be wary if you are pushing your trad limits.
By Kons Kourbatov
From: Aurora, CO
Jun 30, 2015

Found a bail anchor on this route. Describe what you used, and I will give you whatever gear I was able to salvage when I bailed on it a few days ago.

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