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Bush Whacker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Paul Fehlau
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Bush Whacker, the right of the 2 sport climbs at the Sununu Place, may be one of the better sport climbs at the 5.9 grade at White Rock.

Pick out the first bolts down and left of an obvious roof. Getting to the first bolt is a little strange, you can come in from easier climbing to the right and just barely clip it if you don't like 5.9 moves off the ground. The crux is a steep reachy move to a jug just above the first bolt. Fun climbing up a shallow left-facing corner leads to the top.

The new Jemez guide calls this climb 5.8+; the original guide says 5.9+.


3 bolts. (The old guide reports the hangers were stolen, but they are currently present, and were recently upgraded with modern hardware.)

A new 2-bolt anchor was recently installed, so the annoying traverse that you used to need to do at the finish is no longer necessary.

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By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This might get two stars if it had a direct anchor a little higher than where you traverse to BMM. The climb is fun but the traverse unnatural and contrived. Cammo what were you thinking on this one?
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Oct 22, 2009

Thinking? Sorry Scott, I don't do thinking.....
By Wa3lt
Oct 24, 2009

Luke Laeser and I replaced the hangers on these routes many years ago with super-ghetto angle iron ones we had sitting around. I believe Luke made them in shop class.

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