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Cap Rock - North Face
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Bush Eviction T 
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Bush Eviction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Michael & Michael Harrington, 1986
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: OlgaMP on Nov 12, 2013

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Description 

Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.

Protection 

Standard/Large rack. You will need cams between 2" to 4" and 3's and 4's to set up anchor and bring your second up.


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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
May 26, 2015

standard rack of doubles plus one optional #4. no need for many big cams. big cams not mandatory for gear anchor either, plenty of other sizes avail

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