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Bush Doctor 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 1,308
Submitted By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Close up of top crux of Bush Doctor...the reachy p...

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The classic on the formation. In the center of the large corner on Tan Man Tower is the start to this excellent route that ascends the corner, out onto the right wall and up to the top of the tower. This route is height dependent and shorter climbers may find it more difficult at the crux. I'm 5'8" with a +1 and I feel the route may be 11d/12a.

Start in the center of the large corner, follows a few bolts to the first crux, a traverse right that gets you established on the right arete of the wall that forms the right side of the corner. From here solve the slab, enter a small corner feature and exit this to the base of the summit block formation. This is the start of the crux. 3 bolts on the summit block to the top out.

The summit block from a distance has the appearance of the face of a man, thus the crags name.


Directly in the center of the large corner in the center of the Tan Man Tower formation. This route starts up the corner and branches to the right. There is another line that stays in the corner all the way to the top.


Bolts. 14 or so to bolt anchors over the lip.

Photos of Bush Doctor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan King tops out Bush Doctor on his redpoint sen...
Ryan King tops out Bush Doctor on his redpoint sen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corner before the top crux.  Photo credit Kevin Wo...
Corner before the top crux. Photo credit Kevin Wo...

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By thunderhead
From: Oceanside, CA
Mar 24, 2012

what a pleasure. i mean it, this thing is awesome. i probably shouldn't have rated it because i only top roped it and i fell probably 60 times, but it's just a real gem so i gave it 4 stars. the moves are so fun that i was laughing most of the time i was trying to climb this monster. the top sucks though. it should be removed. despite that, great work everyone
By Quan
Oct 20, 2015

An enjoyable climb with a couple heady moves leading up to the crux. I don't want to spoil it, but you're in for some fun right after the traverse.

I did the climb right after the sun set, so I was climbing by headlamp from the crux on. After falling multiple times at the crux and finally pulling it, I ended up going just a little out to the left, gastoned to a pillow-sized flake and peeled said flake off the rock within 6 feet of my belayer. In the dark. My friend and I had to take about 5 minutes to collect ourselves after that. I finished the route next go and discovered the flake was definitely not a part of the climb, so the climb is still intact. Luckily, so was my friend :)

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