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Ranger Station Rock
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Bush Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Nov 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Bush Crack


As you approach the Lost Horse Ranger Station, you will see a formation on the hillside behind the station with a crack splitting the center of the it. This formation is Ranger Rock, and the crack is Bush Crack.The route looks longer than it is. It starts off as a finger crack that widens to fists.I found this to be a very enjoyable climb.


Small to medium cams. Anchor takes medium cams.

Photos of Bush Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from this straight in hand crack is great...
The view from this straight in hand crack is great...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shane on the sharp end. He is just above the crux.
Shane on the sharp end. He is just above the crux.

Comments on Bush Crack Add Comment
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By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A long walk for a crack of this quality, that said if doing some of the other routes nearby (Ranger Station Rock, S-Crack Formation, Hill Street Blues) it may be worth it.
By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Mar 18, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the start is the roughest part. a nice climb but short. from the base of the route you can look in through the windows of the lost horse ranger station and see what those crazy rangers are up to. not much when i checked them out. you can easily set up a TR for "barbara bush", the sweet face climb to the left , by climbing about twenty feet up past the finish of buh crack.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 29, 2006

fun route
By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 25, 2010

ranger station rock is a nice quiet spot with good moderate climbs. This crack is a lot of fun,and a real treat if you enjoy jamming. Unlike many josh jam cracks, this one actually requires jamming, especially hands, and the hands are good. Short, but really quality and an easy walk-off to the left.
By Jeremy Werlin
Jan 22, 2013

Long long ago, before the internet, I had sighted this crack from afar. Clean and stark against her shield of rock, golden in the sun, I did not forget.

Like ripping a barnacle from its rock, it is my time to leave the park. In the wheelhouse of my '79 Honda--only one seat with a beach chair for passengers--I feel a tug and turn my vessel west on to the dirt towards the Ranger Station.

Fires on, chalkbag, I climb in the abundant company of silent desert space. The jams feel good, the body purring from weeks in the Park. Descending, molecules of pungent white sage find my nose. I sit with the plant and sing songs from the sweat lodge where I first met her sister.

So many gifts from the desert.

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