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*The Left Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A White Bread World T 
Blade Runner T 
Bloomin' Idiot T 
Bloomin' Union T 
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 
Butternuts T 
Central Scrutinizer  T 
Certified Freak T 
Dihedral of Dagmar T 
Dirty Deed T 
Earth Diver T 
Earth Puller S 
Flashflood T 
Follow your Doubt T 
Fool's Progress T 
Giardia Crack T 
Guacamole T 
I'm On My Bike T 
Insomnia T 
Inz and Outz S 
Just Another G T 
Mental Health T 
Midwestern Gangster T 
More Anus Than Heinous T 
Morticia T 
Most Excellent T 
Nervous Breakdown T 
Ninja Warrior T 
Noggin 'Nocker T 
Original Sin T 
Outrageous T 
Phlegm Of Fury T 
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 
Righteous Dump T 
Righteous Pump T 
Rising Sun T 
Slaughterfall T 
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 
Spite and Malice T 
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 
Sword, The T 
Terminator T 
Thick and Thin T 
Tombstone T 
Turkish Tickling T 
Tyrant, The T 
Uncle Fister T 
Vertebrae T 
What are you on? T,S 

Bus Stop to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: David Bloom and Joel Unema 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Apr 14, 2014

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The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator. Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole. Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner.

Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.


RP's or small nuts essential, Single set of cams from 000 C3 to #2 C4 with doubles from 0C3 to 0.5 C4. A red or yellow slider is helpful.

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By Mike broad
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 12, 2014

For most people, I'd recommend TRing this first (from either phlegm or guacamole). I found this quite scary to try to onsite.

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