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Bury the Hatchet 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: B. Gillett, K. Younge, 2006
Season: Faces North and West
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2013

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Description 

A good route with thin sections, this route climbs P1 past 2 bolts and then sparse protection (5.8-ish runouts above thin gear) and then P2 on a fairly well-bolted arete with amazing position. It looks awesome from the ground and it delivers that.

P1 (5.8+, 80'): start 10 meters or so left of the base of the large, left-facing corner that leads into The Oculus chimney. Clip a few bolts on mellow terrain and then continue upward for 50 more feet on indistinct territory, tending generally to the right, past thin and infrequent protection (5.8). You will arrive at a stance on a ledge down and left of where the giant flake tot he left of the chimney splits from the main rock to form one of the wildest looking aretes in the county. If you look left from this stance, you'll notice the anchor you probably didn't see until just now. Belay here to avoid drag.

P2 (5.10, 130'): head up and right onto the North-facing wall that climbs to the arete on a line of bolts. Head briefly right around the corner towards a 2-bolt rap anchor (either do not clip, or use long runner) and then back left around the arete at a bulge to the left side (5.9+). Ride this feature on mellow terrain (no harder than 5.9) to a multi-move crux near the top, where the holds get small and sparse. Battle out the crux left and right of the bolt line in turn (5.10) and then finish up top, going to another 2 bolt anchor. This is a fantastic place to have a camera for the leader. Sadly, we did not.

Descent: rap from the top anchor to the one right of the arete on P2 (95') and then to the ground well uphill from the base of the route (90').

Location 

This is the leftmost route on the wall and actually starts on the lower section. Come down and left of the chimney as for The Oculus, and look for 2 bolts on the West-facing wall 10 meters left of the corner that becomes that chimney to start.

Protection 

A light standard rack with RPs or similar thin protection + 13 slings for P2's bolts and perhaps more for optional gear. At least a 60m rope is required to rap at this crag.


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By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Went left at 2nd to last bolt crux on series of left-facing handholds to ramp, still 10b. On rap, I could see there was a hold around right corner that probably would be a better ending but harder?

I use one red HB on the second pitch, that's it.

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