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Burnt Beautician 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jody Hawks
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Trying the route, the first new bolt can be seen w...


This is a gem of a route that exemplifies the best that Unaweep can offer. The route gives you a bit of everything. The first third offers some steep climbing up a few devious holds. Gain a good rest and go up a shallow corner. The next few bolts navigate you through some great slab climbing and a high step on an awesome tooth jutting out of a rock band. The last quarter of the route follows easy terrain on gear to a ledge up and left. Excellent!


100' right of the large boulder leaning against the clean wall which is the start to the 5.11 slab climbs. This is marked by a seam which pods open at about 15' high where a #4 Camalot fits nicely.


QDs, a single set below #2 Camalot. One #4 Camalot for the beginning.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up a classic!
Starting up a classic!

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By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 19, 2013

Climbing to the first of the good gear is quite heady. Upon close examination, two bolt holes were found of which the studs had been broken off of. At least one of these will be replaced next time up there. Until then, be careful!
By that emilio
Apr 28, 2017

We replaced the first bolt, it would be nice to have that second one too, cause placing that first pro is still sketchy, but we climbed it like this. It's a super good route.

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