REI Community
Sunday Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2-fer T,S 
Antlers on a Sunday T 
Arch Traverse S 
Bandito T 
Beginner's Luck T 
Black Dynamite T 
Bridge of Air T,S 
Burnt Beautician T,S 
Catch a Wave S 
Dike Arch T,S 
Dike Pinch T,S 
Don Juan T 
Dreams of Far Away Places T 
Echoes T,S 
Fearless First S 
Gargoyle T 
High Exposure T 
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 
Motion Fascination T 
Napa Arete T,S 
Napa Valley T 
Optical Illusions S 
Overlap T,S 
People are Poodles Too. T 
Pillar 1 S 
Pillar 2a  T,S 
Porticullis S 
R-Tree It T,S 
Red Hangers T 
Right of Trash Can Alley T 
Second Pillar S 
Silently Indirect T,S 
Simple Mind S 
Single Bolt Seam T 
Smooth Reach T,S 
Standard Route T 
Steeple, The T 
Sun Dancer T 
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 
Three's Company T 
Tree It T,S 
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 
Unknown Arete T,S 
Unknown Pillar T,S 
Unknown Reach T,S 
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 
Upper Deck 1 T,S 
Upper Deck 2 T,S 
Wave, The T,S 

Burnt Beautician 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jody Hawks
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Trying the route, the first new bolt can be seen w...

Description 

This is a gem of a route that exemplifies the best that Unaweep can offer. The route gives you a bit of everything. The first third offers some steep climbing up a few devious holds. Gain a good rest and go up a shallow corner. The next few bolts navigate you through some great slab climbing and a high step on an awesome tooth jutting out of a rock band. The last quarter of the route follows easy terrain on gear to a ledge up and left. Excellent!

Location 

100' right of the large boulder leaning against the clean wall which is the start to the 5.11 slab climbs. This is marked by a seam which pods open at about 15' high where a #4 Camalot fits nicely.

Protection 

QDs, a single set below #2 Camalot. One #4 Camalot for the beginning.


Photos of Burnt Beautician Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up a classic!
Starting up a classic!

Comments on Burnt Beautician Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 19, 2013

Climbing to the first of the good gear is quite heady. Upon close examination, two bolt holes were found of which the studs had been broken off of. At least one of these will be replaced next time up there. Until then, be careful!
By that emilio
Apr 28, 2017

We replaced the first bolt, it would be nice to have that second one too, cause placing that first pro is still sketchy, but we climbed it like this. It's a super good route.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About