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Tower 143
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Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) 

Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

   
Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: James Garrett, Pete "Big Billy" Keane, and Brad England, October '98
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on May 12, 2008

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A trio of equalized pins on the third pitch.

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)

    Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)

    Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)

    Location 

    30 minute hike southeast from the Naked Lady Boulder near camp.

    Protection 

    Two sets of cams up to 4 Camalot with an extra .5 and .75.
    One #5 and #6 Camalot
    A decent selection of pitons less than 1".
    A couple rivet hangers.
    Stick Clip? (there is a blown bathook hole on pitch three)


    Photos of Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two. The crack above is pretty spicy stuff f...
    Pitch two. The crack above is pretty spicy stuff f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt nearing the anchor on top of pitch two.
    Matt nearing the anchor on top of pitch two.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Pickren on pitch one.  This pitch looks so in...
    Matt Pickren on pitch one. This pitch looks so in...

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