Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love)
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A trio of equalized pins on the third pitch.
|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)
Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)
Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)
30 minute hike southeast from the Naked Lady Boulder near camp.
Two sets of cams up to 4 Camalot with an extra .5 and .75.
One #5 and #6 Camalot
A decent selection of pitons less than 1".
A couple rivet hangers.
Stick Clip? (there is a blown bathook hole on pitch three)
Pitch two. The crack above is pretty spicy stuff f...
Matt nearing the anchor on top of pitch two.
Matt Pickren on pitch one. This pitch looks so in...
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