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Burning Desire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jerry and Sigrid Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 9
Submitted By: Ryan Cox on Sep 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: P1 and beginning of P2.

Description 

Amazing route with varied climbing, i.e. crack, face, slab, runnel.

P1 - 5.9: Start up the short finger/hand crack on the starting block/bulge; leave the crack after a few moves once the crack turns 90 degrees right/horizontal; climb up face/slab, up a runnel, to the belay ledge (2 bolts, no rap rings/chains).

P2 - 5.6: Follow the obvious crack with large face holds along side, passing an anchor for another route. Make your way up and right eventually to reach large belay blocks.

Location 

Near the middle of the wall. 2 routes left of Aqua Groovy, which has an obvious line of bolts up a thin edge/seem leading to a double runnel system). ID the start by looking for the 20 foot crack that makes a 90 degree right turn near its top. Walk off right.

Protection 

9 bolts, plus 2 bolt anchor on p1. Pro to 3". 70m rope helps to reach a good belay on p2, but a 60m can just barely make it to the lowest belay blocks.


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