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Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)

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Approach Wall 
Back Walls 
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Opposite Main Wall 
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Pachyderm Buttress 
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Wonderland 

Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.7793, -122.0022 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,854
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Sep 28, 2011  with updates from Ryan.C
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Description 

An excellent limestone sport climbing crag, located 26 miles outside of Redding on the way to Burney via the 299. The rock is limestone of pretty good quality, a bit dirty from lack of use but solid.

Getting There 

From the I-5 take CA299 east toward Burney. Burney Limestone is 26 miles outside of Redding. First you will pass a pretty large limestone outcropping, this is not it. The road is primarily S turns, but after a large S turn, you will see a paved pullout on the right side of the road accompanied by a Highway Information sign with lights on top. There is a small gravel pullout just beyond this on the right hand side of the road and a small trail on the left side of the road, (across the road) heading up a steep hill into the forest. This is the approach trail. The trail is very small and not well marked,(look for a 5'tall rock outcropping) but it is there and takes you right into The Shredding. You'll know you passed it if you see a large limestone wall on the left. This is the wall know as The Pachyderm Wall aka The Sunshine Wall. Cross the road with caution, it is a highway, vehicles come around the corner at high speed.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',30],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',9],['5.8',5],['5.9',7],['5.10',11],['5.11',13],['5.12',15],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding):
Gateway Drug   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport   Opposite Main Wall
Cheeky Bastard   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Outer Wall
Remedy   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Approach Wall
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Outer Wall
Abstinence   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Opposite Main Wall
Swallow Hole   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Back Walls
Figure Four   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Outer Wall
Nemesis   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Outer Wall
Junk On the Trunk   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Pachyderm Buttress
Chastity Belt   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 50'   Opposite Main Wall
In To Deep   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 40'   Back Walls
Crank Whore   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 45'   The Main Wall
Hole in the Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine...
Porn Star   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+     Sport, Boulder, 30'   Main Wall Cave Routes
Fashion Victim   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 45'   The Main Wall
Cranked on Fashion   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 50'   The Main Wall
Clean Palms, Dirty Fingers   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport   Wonderland
Space Sluts   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   The Main Wall
Spread Eagle   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   The Main Wall
No Quarter   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 70'   The Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)

Featured Route For Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)
Rock Climbing Photo: early morning sess

Cranked on Fashion 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Northeast California : ... : The Main Wall
The route begins on Crank Whore. Climb Crank Whore to the 4th bolt using a longer draw to avoid rope drag Then traverse right across the route The Squeeze using a right hand gaston to join the route Fashion Victim at its 4th bolt. Make the clip with a longer draw if you have one to avoid rope drag. Continue to the top of Fashion Victim.This route avoids the smaller crimps on the upper section of Crank Whore and the crimps on the lower section of Fashion Victim, combining the bigger jugs on bot...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another Vertical Nightmare (AVN) 5.12.  Short and ...
BETA PHOTO: Another Vertical Nightmare (AVN) 5.12. Short and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: cushdi crackage
cushdi crackage

Comments on Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding) Add Comment
Show which comments
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 16, 2014
bring a stick clip for high first bolts. Can be loose on the lesser climbed areas
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Aug 2, 2015
A NOTE ON THE NEW GLUEIN BOLTS AND ANCHORS

Having lived in Sydney for the last 7 years, i learned to bolt in the sandstone of the blue mountains, under the tutelage of Mike Law and Steven Hawkshaw, both industrial engineers and climbers. The following document is the general guide that i follow.

google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&e...

With the gluein anchor placements, when lowering off or TR, it is better to thread the rap ring if there is one and also thread the bolt. ( as the purpose is always to have 2 safety points) The 2 are offset to prevent rope twist which happens on 2 anchor points at the same level (overcome on most existing climbs at the shredding by unsightly chains). If quickdraws are used to TR off the anchors, i noticed on a couple of routes on the outer wall, (King of Fives and Momento Mori) the gate can be forced open with the angles generated from the rope line, as i didnt space them well enough, so its better to used a screwgate when TR, if you dont want to thread the anchor.
By splitclimber
Feb 18, 2016
Thanks Dan, Steve and others for putting up all these new routes. After climbing a bunch of stuff up to 5.9 there for two days, in general, it seems the ratings of the easier climbs are all over the place.