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Burner Buttress
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Burner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
Page Views: 2,784
Submitted By: Michael Buchanan on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Mark Ward on the first ascent in '76. Bought a Tu...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Full on fatty!

Location 

Left of Firestarter

Protection 

Big fat cams (#5 and #6 Camalot) No Bolted anchors. Hexes work well for anchor. Rap the tree.


Photos of Burner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hack Attacks attacks Burner.
The Hack Attacks attacks Burner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Burner Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Ca...
BETA PHOTO: Burner Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Burner Buttress seen from the notch between Bongea...
BETA PHOTO: Burner Buttress seen from the notch between Bongea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderful looking crack. Great to top rope and pra...
BETA PHOTO: Wonderful looking crack. Great to top rope and pra...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo gives you a sense of the rock and crack...
BETA PHOTO: This photo gives you a sense of the rock and crack...
Rock Climbing Photo: Weapons of valor!!
Weapons of valor!!
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful place to suffer!
A beautiful place to suffer!
Rock Climbing Photo: battle prep
battle prep
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a break from the ACL-tearing knee bar (phot...
Taking a break from the ACL-tearing knee bar (phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh the humanity! (photo by Charlie Stoker)
Oh the humanity! (photo by Charlie Stoker)
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta shot for the start of "Burner"
Beta shot for the start of "Burner"
Rock Climbing Photo: Last known photograph....
Last known photograph....
Rock Climbing Photo: The top slab section of Burner. The vertical secti...
The top slab section of Burner. The vertical secti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta Photo.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo.

Comments on Burner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

tried this back in my formative trad years on tr, and barely made it 15 feet!
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

just went back this past saturday 1/29/11 and gave this thing another go. It's pretty much hand/fist stacks for a long while with a knee in the crack. tr'd it because stepping to 10d ow in january (or any month for that matter) seems crazy to me.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 23, 2011

Much harder than Firestarter for sure. The first 10 feet aren't bad as there is a bomber edge in the back to milk, but once the hand/fist stacks start its a fight. 2 each #5/#6 camalots a good idea. The crack turns into a liebackable flake near the top of the vertical section which I took full advantage of as my knee was bleedy profusely. Wide cracks are fun in a weird painful way.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 29, 2012

To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts.
By celerystick
From: Riverton
Jul 15, 2012

You'll either love it or hate it...I loved it! Had to TR, I didn't have gear big enough.
By bsmoot
Dec 6, 2012

F.A. Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The Ruckman guide calls it 10.d--come ready to fight!
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
May 8, 2017

Such a quality line, and while it is more sustained, the moves are a bit more obvious than the cruxes on Fire starter or Certain death IMO.... Not that this is too surprising.. I think the position of the crack gets one pretty fired up too, pun intended.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Jun 9, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Although I had the benefit of a top rope to simplify things, it seemed to me like the main crux was not getting your knee stuck! Take care getting it out after sitting on it. This climb has no-hands rests galore. A bit of trickiness to change directions and jam around the 'don't do the lieback' flake, after which it eases up again.

I'm surprised this was rated 5.10d at one point. This was far and away much easier than Generator Crack in Yosemite, which was my benchmark for 5.10c OW and also required some Leavittation. I'd call this one 5.10a or 5.10b.

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