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Burner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
Page Views: 2,655
Submitted By: Michael Buchanan on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Mark Ward on the first ascent in '76. Bought a Tu...

Description 

Full on fatty!

Location 

Left of Firestarter

Protection 

Big fat cams (#5 and #6 Camalot) No Bolted anchors. Hexes work well for anchor. Rap the tree.


Photos of Burner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hack Attacks attacks Burner.
The Hack Attacks attacks Burner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Weapons of valor!!
Weapons of valor!!
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful place to suffer!
A beautiful place to suffer!
Rock Climbing Photo: battle prep
battle prep
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a break from the ACL-tearing knee bar (phot...
Taking a break from the ACL-tearing knee bar (phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh the humanity! (photo by Charlie Stoker)
Oh the humanity! (photo by Charlie Stoker)
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta shot for the start of "Burner"
Beta shot for the start of "Burner"
Rock Climbing Photo: Last known photograph....
Last known photograph....
Rock Climbing Photo: The top slab section of Burner. The vertical secti...
The top slab section of Burner. The vertical secti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta Photo.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo.

Comments on Burner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

tried this back in my formative trad years on tr, and barely made it 15 feet!
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

just went back this past saturday 1/29/11 and gave this thing another go. It's pretty much hand/fist stacks for a long while with a knee in the crack. tr'd it because stepping to 10d ow in january (or any month for that matter) seems crazy to me.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 23, 2011

Much harder than Firestarter for sure. The first 10 feet aren't bad as there is a bomber edge in the back to milk, but once the hand/fist stacks start its a fight. 2 each #5/#6 camalots a good idea. The crack turns into a liebackable flake near the top of the vertical section which I took full advantage of as my knee was bleedy profusely. Wide cracks are fun in a weird painful way.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 29, 2012

To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts.
By celerystick
From: Riverton
Jul 15, 2012

You'll either love it or hate it...I loved it! Had to TR, I didn't have gear big enough.
By bsmoot
Dec 6, 2012

F.A. Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The Ruckman guide calls it 10.d--come ready to fight!
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
May 8, 2017

Such a quality line, and while it is more sustained, the moves are a bit more obvious than the cruxes on Fire starter or Certain death IMO.... Not that this is too surprising.. I think the position of the crack gets one pretty fired up too, pun intended.

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