REI Community
Cracked Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 
60 Minutes T,TR 
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 
Bob's Cling TR 
Burn Permit S 
Camel S,TR 
Civilized Evil T,TR 
Crank You, Thank You S 
Crankin' S 
Curley Shuffle S 
Dirty Rat's Crack T 
Guide's Area TR 
Humps T 
Lama T,S,TR 
Mouse Maze T,S 
Namasté T,S 
No Permit Required S 
Only Way To Fly S,TR 
Rat Race S 
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 
Western Airlines S 
Unsorted Routes:

Burn Permit 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Klis & Joe Ramos
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Towards the left side of Cracked Wall, locate the first bolt about 15' off the ground. [For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']. Climb up steep face past 2 more bolts, with a crux coming between the bolts 2 and 3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, passing two more bolts. Trend left into the top "notch" of Camel and to the Camel anchor.


5 bolts + a light rack for the top.

Comments on Burn Permit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Reynolds
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I love the start of this climb as opposed to 'No Permit Required.' Makes it a much more consistantly difficult climb. I found a brilliant undercling to get past the initial section.
By Internet Hardman
Apr 28, 2011

My second favorite route...ever.
By Ken Klis
May 4, 2011

Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four hours and occurs without sexual stimulation.

Isn't this normal?

What is your favorite route ever?
By Internet Hardman
May 9, 2011

Whatever I'm climbing that day is my favorite : )
By Internet Hardman
May 9, 2011

(priapism is the first sign of spinal injury) but there is a pretty funny backstory.
By John Knight
Jan 21, 2012

In the description of the climb it says, "[For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']."

This "old, rusty bolt" has been replaced with a new, shiny bolt so don't look for the old rusty bolt.

Side Note - Basically, this climb is a direct start variation of No Permit Required. For some reason, people started calling it Burn Permit and the name (sort of) stuck. I guess it's easier to call it Burn Permit than the Direct Start Variation of New Permit Required.

I thought the direct start was a grade harder than the original start (clip the new, shiny bolt and move left).
By Internet Hardman
Jul 7, 2015

A missing hold and a harder route than before
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

All, except very tall people, will have to make a committing move to clip the first bolt. Consider pre-placing the draw or even pre-clipping it. Around the first bolt, this route has one of the more cryptic, tricky sequences at cracked wall. If you like puzzles you will enjoy this.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About