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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Uncharacteristic for an Indian Creek route in that the climb does not rely on crack climbing. Make your way up the first half of the route on an array of shelves, wraps and rounded crimpers. The meat of the climb is moving through a very small tips crack (about 20 feet). Unless you have fingers thinner than the diameter of a #2 pencil, just treat this section as a long 1/4-pad crimp fest. After a good stance on top of the thin crack, step in pods, maybe use a nearly invisible ledge and find your way to a series of jugs.
On the right facing side of the dihedral Kool Cat ascends. Look for the jagged crack creeping its way up the middle section.
According to Bloom, 7x 0.4 cams (gold friends). Might consider grouping placements of this size next to each other. Anchors can alternatively be reached from lowering off the Kool Cat anchors and climbing up the upper jugs. Be careful of swing potential, though.
BETA PHOTO: Midway up the thin tips crack on Burl Dog.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Apr 18, 2014
metolius blue x3 purple x3 grey x2 and 1 red camalot
this testpiece is being toproped to death...
By Nate Sydnor
8 hours ago
Haha Matt! Top-roped to death, eh?! I know for a fact you haven't led this thing! :)
All bullshitting with Matt aside, from my experience, I would say that his gear beta could get you in trouble. I preferred multiple red c3s and blue Metolius. I used 6 total. 3 is a major stretch on safety. Also, once in the crux, purple Metolius are less than ideal. I found the old, yellow BD .2, which is a hair bigger, to be the best. In the upper section I used a #2 BD, a purple c3 and a grey Metolius.