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Buried Treasure 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ted Hammond and Bob Pike '84
Page Views: 3,367
Submitted By: Jake D. on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
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Jess on the awesome handcrack of buried treasure. ...


Start right of the wet corner to a tricky overlap then continue up a few hard sequences to the super featured crack above.

sunglasses or a cloudy day recommended for the moves over the first overlap.. unless you like staring into the sun


Bolted line just right of the wet streak of Prime Climb


11-12 bolts. Has it's own anchors now also. 60m Rope might still be needed.

Photos of Buried Treasure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris at the crux of the route
BETA PHOTO: Chris at the crux of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Buried Treasure - climber - Nancy Lan...
The start of Buried Treasure - climber - Nancy Lan...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 20, 2017
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2008

Jake... the sun moves, so im not too worried about that part, haha... however i think this route is worth a bit more description...

You climb easier 5.9ish rock to the roof about 20-25 feet up, this would be the lower crux... Awkward moves over the roof lead to a good stance... Above are 2 more bulges, the first one isnt bad but steals a little energy and getting past the second one is a bit of a pumpy afair... Climb some sidepulls then make a move left and mentel up on to a slabby stance... Here you can move right in to the crack which for me was a wonderful thing since i was a bit pumped cause i could still jam... climb the crack to the chains...

there were a few loose holds but the dirtyness that was mentioned in the guide book is gone and the rock is nice and clean...
By Hannah W
Apr 3, 2010

I really love this climb - varied movement, cool rock and a perfect hand crack at top to boot. Out of the three 11bs right in a row I think this one is the best.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 28, 2011

Ravens often build their nest directly above the anchor, so if you didn't notice them until you got there, they may freak the liver out of you. It's best to avoid in the spring when they are there and making a fuss, or at least be discrete as you approach the top and lower quickly and quietly away.
By S. Neoh
Jun 28, 2011

Mark, was the FA done mostly on trad gear? And reto-bolted later?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 28, 2011

At least the top. Ted and Brady retroed it later. I may have replaced one or two of the lower bolts that were getting funky.
By Hannah W
Jun 29, 2011

I distinctly remember one day climbing this route and a bird attacking me as I clipped the chains. I think I squacked the rest of the day about horrible birds.....
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 29, 2011

Uh oh, Hannah. Now they will remember you for years.
By Ming
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fantastic climb for sure. Great for breaking into the mid 11s at Rumney. It is like 3 different routes stacked on top of each other. First part is basic 5.9 face climbing. Pull the roof then up to the crack. Short people like me lay back on the sidepull while taller people can get decent feet on out right. The second crux is a hard pull up from the crimp up the slab and get established. It finishes with an easy 10ish crack that you can jam securely while having enough features on the face for your feet. Superb route!
By WillK
May 26, 2015

Tried it twice over the wkend and was surprised to find that water had seeped and soaked the crucial crimp at the upper crux. I didn't think it had rained here recently. Not sure why I tried it again after I found some water the first time, but it only got worse overnight haha. I was still able to pull crux after several attempts, but it was a pain and I'd bring a bail biner just in case.

Also, a friend found a solid knee bar in that lay back section before upper crux. I couldn't really find it myself, but there's potential for no-hands rest after that pumpy section.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 27, 2015

A balancey high step, a classic layback, crimps to a sideways throw for a bucket (crux), a tenuous slabby traverse, an honest-to-God hand crack at Rumney . . . this climb has it all.
By J Meagher
Jul 20, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I would highly recommend using a quickdraw with locking carabiners on the 4th bolt. I fell at the first roof today and had the bolt side carabiner come open from being scraped against the rock during the fall.

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