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Burggrub

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Burggruber Wand 
Luisenwand 

Burggrub Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.87173, 11.13331 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 300
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Sep 30, 2014
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Description 

This palindromic town is located near 4 crags which house some beastly hard and technical routes. Luisenwand and Rotenstein are the destination crags here, as they were the homes of some of the hardest routes established in the 1980s. Burggruber Block and Wand are located between the two gem crags and offer more enjoyable routes, though they lack the "classic" quality and corresponding polish.

Getting There 

The GPS coordinates are for the parking. Burggrub is located West of Heiligenstadt. From Burggrub, drive towards Oberngrub (the sign can be a little difficult to spot if coming from Heiligenstadt, but it's directly across the street from the signs indicating the direction to Hollfeld) and 200m after the town exit sign is a forest road on the left, branching off lightly in the same direction you're driving. Pull off here and park at the edge of this road, paying attention to the street sign indicating the point at which you're no longer allowed to drive further. Please don't disregard this as access is sensitive with the landowner.
From here, walk up the road, keeping to the right as the road curves around. Continue for nearly a half mile to a point where you see some big boulders and a road branching off to the left. Take this road left and Rotenstein is the first crag you'll see after 30m. Hike up the steep hill. The Burggruber Wand is just left of this. The Burggruber Block is 100m left of the Wand and is most easily accessed by walking an extra 120m further down the road, then heading right up the trail (after 20m take a left to reach Luisenwand) for 80m.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 14.2 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Burggrub
Rock Climbing Photo: In middle of the crux bulge.

Team Motivation 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Europe : Germany : ... : Luisenwand
This technical masterpiece resulted from a collaboration between three legends of German climbing, Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert and Norman Batz. The rock is uncharacteristically monolithic, with only a few thin and shallow features marring an others impenetrable wall. The cliff itself is just barey less than vertical, with a slight bulge at mid-height providing a brief sequence of overhanging climbing, and the crux. The sequence is never obvious, weaving from side to side as it connects an i...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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