REI Community
Schultz's Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Hard Enough? S 
Bikini Beach Party T 
Burden of Dreams T 
Caught at the Lip S 
Crystalline Passage S 
Demon's Delight T 
Dreams of Thailand S 
Gidget Goes to Yosemite S 
Hooter Alert S 
Just Do Me S 
Moratorium, The T 
New Suede Shoes S 
Proud Snapper T 
Psycho Bitch T 
Second Thoughts T 
Superstem S 
Warm Up Crack T 

Burden of Dreams 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Tom Davis and David Rubine
Page Views: 2,099
Submitted By: Keith Forest on May 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jonathan looking up at the second pitch.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Photos of Burden of Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Burden of Dreams Topo
BETA PHOTO: Burden of Dreams Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the first pitch. You start on the fi...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the first pitch. You start on the fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1982 movie poster. Doc about the making of Fitzcar...
1982 movie poster. Doc about the making of Fitzcar...

Comments on Burden of Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010

Often overlooked 5 pitch, mixed face and crack route (mostly continuous steep slab climbing on the face just right of the Moratorium). Beautiful Climb!
By Rob Dillon
May 23, 2010

Wow, I was just looking over at this beauty a couple days ago. Polished golden granite...bolts don't look horribly far anything more to add on this one?
By Keith Forest
May 25, 2010

Rob-If you like steep slab it does not get any better. I have been on it and found every pitch unique, hard on fantastic granite. I believe the topo is in the last Yosemite guide.

I did find a few sections to be a little stretched out- right at my comfort zone. But nowhere did it seem unsafe to me.

There is a pin protecting the 10c crux on the 1st pitch that had me a little worried but it did look sound. I wish a bolt had been placed there instead.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 23, 2011

Thanks for posting this Keith. I was looking at this and 'Golden Years' in my Reid guide and was thinking about giving them a go. I do have a question though. What generation are the bolts on this thing? I believe 'Burden' went up in 1990 which means it could have reasonable or sorta sketchy hardware (i.e. is it old school SMC stuff or...)
Any info you have would be welcome.

EDIT: Thanks for the reply Keith!!
By Keith Forest
Jul 9, 2011

Just got your question J. Albers. Both routes have Metolius Bolt hangers. They also have 3/8 inch, with what look like, expansion bolts - wedge anchor type because they have nuts. I felt very safe with the anchoring. Well thought out belay locations too.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About