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Buoux Montana Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 6,500 ft |
| GPS: |
39.90256, -105.28393 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 33,705 total · 305/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Mar 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Back in 1987 the pocket climbing at Buoux, France, was the talk of the town. The climbers who found this holey paradise, located at the nether end of the Flatirons, thought it was remote like Montana with handholds like Buoux (page 29 in Richard Rossiter's 2000 edition of his Eldorado Canyon guidebook).
By the way, the Flatirons are made of arkose sandstone, not limestone.
There are three named crags: Big Sky Motel, Main Wall, and The Congo. Rossiter listed four routes, but several more have been completed since. Short but sweet, some of the routes get my vote as the best 5.10 pocket & hueco jug hauls in the state!!!
Getting There
After careful land ownership research, I think that Buoux Montana is on public lands. However, several hundred feet of railroad land must be crossed between the "parking spot" parcel of Jeffco Open Space land and the Jeffco land west of the railroad where Buoux Montana lies. No tunnel needs to be entered. Keep a low profile like the hobos who once had many camps in this area.
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Classic Climbing Routes at Buoux Montana
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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