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Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände
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Bunte Wand  

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kurt Albert, 1978
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015

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A sea of baffling jugs.


The area’s classic warmup, Bunte Wand follows a short, honeycomb-ed prow of unreal pockets. The climbing is harder than it looks, with long reaches and too many options, the key is locating the best pockets in a sea of white powder. Most of these seem to slope downwards, so discovering the best way to use each pocket is also a challenge. The first crux is a hard pull off a two-finger pocket near a ring bolt, but the redpoint crux is clearing the obvious, high bulge. If this were reasonably long it would be a 4-star route.


Climbs the blunt prow on the far right end of the cliff.


A couple fixed threads and a few bolts to a fixed anchor.

Photos of Bunte Wand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the honeycomb prow.
Starting up the honeycomb prow.

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