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Buns Up 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1st bolted ascent - Mike Lewis 7.25.17
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Mike A. Lewis on Jul 25, 2017

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Mike Lewis on the 1st bolted ascent of Buns Up.

Lead Only Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the small, 20-foot right-facing corner, using underclings, sidepulls, and holds out on the face. After the first 25 feet, the route eases to 5.5. The first 2 bolts are placed where the good rock is, though the climbing is to the left. Clipping the 2nd bolt can be tough.

To the right of the 1st 3 bolts is an often wet, mossy streak. To get past the 3rd bolt, the moves can go either way - left into the clean rock or right into the mossy rock. Left is suggested....

Overall, the rock quality is so-so, and it's a bit licheny. It should clean up a bit over time. The opening moves are actually pretty cool.

Location 

10 feet left of "Leyechen," the route climbs a small, overhanging dihedral/corner with a mossy, sometimes, wet streak to the right.

Protection 

5 bolts and 2 chains.


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