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Bunker Buster 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: T-zilla Rap-drilla, Gern Blinston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Tod Anderson on Apr 4, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Irok topo.

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This is the third route from the left on Irok featuring overhanging climbing for the first 30 feet. The crux is between the second and third bolt and is followed by some strenuous, but slightly easier climbing to a slab. The headwall above the slab is about 5.10b. Powerful and technical climbing on not so painful holds make this one of the better outings at the crag. Some of the bunker busters launched off of here made it all the way to the creek. Watch for wasps in the crack in the lower part of the slab.


13 quickdraws + anchors.

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By Tod Anderson
Aug 6, 2003

These are quite possibly the best routes in the entire universe, if you can send on IROK?
By Gern Blinston
Aug 9, 2003

I think the route falls just short of 4 stars. The move to the slab is all torque.
By Brady C.
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

So the sequence at the 4th bolt totally stumped me (after the vertical hand jam). It seemed much more difficult than the earlier sequence... any beta out there?
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2017

Fun movement through the bottom, leading to the cruxiest of lip turns, which takes a bit of the fun away. That said, the FAs should have stopped while they were ahead...the headwall above the slab is truly awful. Long, awkward moves between okay but not entirely clean edges, mixed with guano and choss really ruin the rest of the route, especially since it's out of character with both the start and the slab. (I'm not using choss metaphorically, I actually took a hand-sized piece off that came with me while the rope caught me and I half-decked on the slab below the headwall.)

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