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Split Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Boy T 
Bike Across America T 
Bite Me T 
Bumpy S 
C-Section T 
C.C. Takes San Jose T 
Cleared For Takeoff T 
Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 
Felch T 
Gynogroove T 
In And Out T 
Nipple, The T 
Nuptual Sac T 
Porky's Excellent Adventure T 
Potato Gun, The S 
Too Obvious T 
Turtle Vein T 

Bumpy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Stella on Bumpy at Split Rocks

Description 

An easy start leads to a high first bolt after which the climbing is sustained and well protected. Good moves on unusal rock make this a fun route to do when in the area.

The minimal approach and somewhat novel rock make this a route to seek out. One star out of five.

Location 

Located on the west face of Split Dome, just behind and right of Overbolted Rock, on a very featured section of rock.

Protection 

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Bumpy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Bumpy". Photo by Blitzo.
"Bumpy". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Bumpy Add Comment
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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 28, 2004

I just did this one and agree with Chris Miller. It is a nice mid range climb, well protected, easy walkoff, close to the road and other cool climbs. I wish it were longer. But that won't happen. A bit gritty and when wet, slippery (No shit! But I did it right after a drizzle so I thought I would add that in). A nice little warm up or wind down? I give it a "5.fun" Quote R.A.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 9, 2004

There were two other routes in the "Bumpy" family. Bumpys Cousin and Son of Bumpy. Both in the 5.7 range. Three bolts each and anchors. Well, a friend and I (Yes I do actually have friends thank you. But they usually don't last) went to check them out today. Gone are the bolts etc... Now there remains six ugly holes unplugged. Ashamed! I may possibly have been at the wrong routes (I doubt it) None the less, to see bolts gone and not properly taken care of? If the need to remove is in you, can't whomever you are do it right?
By Todd Gordon
Mar 9, 2004

May we all bow our heads for a moment of silence for the death of Son of Bumpy and Bumby's Cousin.....They weren't great routes, but fun loving routes. They were part of a family (The Bumpys), ....those who knew them, loved them.....snuffed out like a candle. Shame on the "murderers" of the Bumpys. Whoever chopped the Bumpys, probably cheats on their taxes, pulls the labels off of pillows, and goes through other's underware drawers when visiting. Cemented in drilled pitons (ugly), holes in rock where drilled pins were (uglier), murderer of Bumpys (ugliest).
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 12, 2004

Sad to hear about the routes getting whacked. All of the Bumpy routes were nice additions to the area that were fun, well-protected and would clean up nicely with time and further ascents.

Odd that the newer Bumpy routes (Son Of Bumpy and Return Of Bumpy), not the original route were chopped. The two newer ones were in an inconspicuous location and not at all visible until right at them. The bolts were glued in drilled angles (the rock wasn't the best) and it would have taken a bit of effort to remove, not to mention the ugly gaping holes left behind.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 15, 2004

Fun, unusual climbing make this a worthwhile quick tick. A good choice for cold days. There's an easy (unnamed?) crack just left (5.3?).
By Bruce Bindner
Apr 20, 2009

Regarding the un-named crack to the left of Bumpy:

If this is the first big chimney to the right of In and Out and Big Boy, Nurse Ratchet and I climbed two routes in this chimney this past week:

C-Section (5.9 squeeze) climbs back and up through a narrow inside passage. Probable first ascent because I had to move some chockstones out of the way in order to fit through.

Sea Monster (5.5 OW) climbs the outside of the wavy chimney. This is likely the easy, un-named (until now) crack. Definitely not an FA, the rock was very clean, and due to its easy access and prominence when viewed from the parking area, likely many ascents over the years. Protection from #2 to #4 Big Bros.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 21, 2009

Bumpy *, 5.8+/5.9

This is the original "Bumpy" route. It is located just right of Over bolted Rock. It is easily seen from Split Rocks parking (look right). Follow "bumps" past 4 bolts (or fixed angles in holes, to a 2 bolt anchor). Walk off to the right, down a ramp in a chimney.


Gynogroove , 5.6
Chimney left of Bumpy. FA T. Tech, B. Povolny, T. Gordon Feb., 03
By Bruce Bindner
Apr 22, 2009

Hey Todd, thanks for the update! Looks like Nurse Ratchet and I repeated Gynogroove. Fun route. Also went up through an inside passage way back in the back. C-Section. 5.9 squeeze. I've edited the Sea Monster entry to reflect your name and ascent. I take it you guys didn't try the pitch-dark, spelunking inside squeeze?

Brutus
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 23, 2009

Bruce;....the one chimney was plenty enough for me....the spelunking way was probably way cool......your motivation for the double chimney experience is impressive!........(Or is it just plain twisted?....)...Cheers! Todd