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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977
Page Views: 2,815
Submitted By: M. Morley on Oct 28, 2006

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Elli takes a rest on Bummer.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Start as for Lazy Bum, passing a cruxy 10b move to reach a white knob. Once standing on the white horizontal dike, climb the fingertip crack that protects well with RPs/micronuts. Make a commiting move (10c crux) to gain a thin hands, somewhat flaring crack. The climbing eases to 9+/10a from here to the ledge. The 2-bolt anchor is shared with both Jamcrack and Lazy Bum. Either rap from here to the ground or continue up unremarkable second pitch (5.9), passing a single bolt (replaced 4/99 by the ASCA) 20' up to gain a grassy crack. A single rope rap back to the ledge, and another single rope rap to the ground.


Micronuts/RPs are essential for protecting the thin crux. Additionally, a single set of cams with doubles in the smaller sizes.

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2006

This route, and "Lazy Bum" can be toproped after doing the first pitch of the "Jamcrack Route". In fact, this is how most people do them.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Apr 9, 2007

Micro nuts essential.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 17, 2007

As Darshan suggests, this a relatively safe lead with a handful of RPs/micronuts.
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Crux protects with micro gear. Not as classic as Lazy Bum IMO.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
May 31, 2010

A black alien protects the crux perfectly. If you have a set of aliens and a set of offset stoppers you'll be golden.
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 5, 2012

My first taste of 5.10's in the valley, sent on TR. Palms sweating just thinking about leading it. Bring the small stuff.

BETA SPOIL, maybe:

If on lead, or TR, nice no hands rest in the wide part of the crack 2/3 the way up.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Feb 15, 2015

FA was done by Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977, according to my 1982 George Meyers guide.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jan 2, 2017

One of my very first 5.10 leads in 1978. No cams or micro nuts. I think a Chouinard #1 or #2 stopper protected the crux that I did as a dyno to the hole.

Was gripped from there to the top, not gonna lie. :)

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