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Bumble Pie S 
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Bumble Pie 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Addison
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: zach cook on Sep 22, 2016

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Description 

A relatively short face climb, with nice clean edges. Climb through a short overhang and follow a series of balancy moves until you cut right onto headwall.

Location 

scramble up to an alcove just left of too much fun

Protection 

draws


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By Ted Lange
Jun 26, 2017

Warning! The new City of Rocks guidebook is great, BUT for this route is has the potential to set you up for a dangerous situation because:

1) It says the route is "soft in the grade" for 11c.
2) It shows the route as being entirely sport (blue line on the picture which is supposed to mean no gear needed).
3) It describes it as two pitches with the first being 5.3. This implies an anchor at the top of the first pitch, although the picture is accurate in not showing any bolts here.
4) An 11c leader may not have read the route description for the adjacent Too Much Fun (5.8) which explains that you need two ropes to get down.

So here's the deal:

1) A couple days after climbing Bumble Pie, I onsighted Loch Ness Monster - 11c on Bath Rock West. On Bumble Pie I took 3 or 4 times due to its very sustained nature and because the beta took some figuring out. Overall, the route may not have a super hard single move, but it did NOT feel soft for the grade. This is significant because the guidebook comment about it being "soft" is likely to lure in climbers who are just breaking into the grade. It is very important to note that the first three clips are quite pumpy and intimidating as you launch up a bulge way off the deck, above a landing that you could potentially hit if your belayer is not attentive.

2) The "way off the deck" location of the second pitch belay / first clip is particularly significant because THERE IS NO ANCHOR! You need a blue Camelot for a gear anchor, or you and your partner are going to be relying on a single bolt (the first clip is easy) 60 feet off the deck, with the possibility of the leader whipping before clipping the second bolt if they get rattled.

3) The first "pitch" is not 5.3 - It's a highball, unprotectable 5.7 slab boulder problem, followed by a long section of 4th class (with maybe a little 5.3) to get to the headwall. I probably would have had no problem downclimbing the boulder problem at the start, but I was very glad to avoid it by traversing over to the Too Much Fun anchor and borrowing a second rope from our friends who were climbing that route.

The bottom line is that 5.11 climbers should be comfortable soloing to the base of the route, and if you bring gear for the anchor and two ropes to get down this will be an exciting and enjoyable climb. Highly recommended!

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