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Claim Jumper Wall
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Better Luck Next Time S 
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Bum Steer S 
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Claim Jumper S 
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Bum Steer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Roger Stephens, July 1997
Page Views: 1,324
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 26, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.


A short ways left of Claim Jumper is this fairly long route that, like it's neighbor, weaves it's way up the face. Boulder up positive edges at the start and then head left to the rounded arete with a distinct crux at the 5th bolt (going straight up is possible but harder). Once past the crux, the holds get huge as the bolts become fairly spaced apart making for an exhilarating finish.

The climbing on this is decent but a number of holds are suspect and may break, including holds at the crux, so heads up. More traffic will help to clean this up and possibly improve the quality of the route.


7 bolts, sport anchors

Photos of Bum Steer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil at the crux of Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Val...
Phil at the crux of Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Val...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris midway on Bum Steer, 5.10a.
Chris midway on Bum Steer, 5.10a.
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil at the anchors of Bum Steer (5.10a) high abov...
Phil at the anchors of Bum Steer (5.10a) high abov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil on Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...
Phil on Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...

Comments on Bum Steer Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

Man, Chris, I'm glad it's a member of the FA team leaving a description like that! I really enjoy this climb - fun and representative of the 10a's at Holcomb. But I'm still at the stage were I feel like a big boy anytime I redpoint a 10, ha ha.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 13, 2013

The climb is a good one, but the anchors are jacked (now?) because the cold-links on the anchor lie flat against the rock. DO NOT THREAD THESE LINKS FOR A LOWER OR RAPPEL, thread the anchors directly and rappel.

Would someone PLEASE add a couple of 3/8" quick-links to this mess? We didn't have two with us or we would have.

I'll delete some of this when the fix is posted.

By Clif Clap
Jul 25, 2014

Like other routes on this wall, I'd say this one could be easy to misread but I think it's more straight-forward than Claim Jumper. Well protected and sports a cool mantel.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 14, 2017

Another so-so route to do if your main objective is taken. Erik is right, the anchor is a mess - still is 4 years later. Fatty cold-shuts with single smash links below. Difficult to thread, a for sure rope twister and rumors of stuck ropes from the pull. We avoided by using the links above not the smash-links.

I've done the route in the past, and might do it again but in no rush. Anyone reading this today should bring up a set of quick links as MisterE suggested or just donate a few leave-it biners. Neither of which I was prepared for or would have done the community service.

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