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Bully 

Hueco: V11-12 Font: 8A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V11-12 Font: 8A+ [details]
FA: Jeff Webb late 1990's
Page Views: 745
Submitted By: skinny legs and all on Dec 11, 2013

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  • Description 

    Were you a bully in school? If so, your physical prowess may help on this demanding bloc. Bully is the most classic problem of its grade in Little Cottonwood, and one of the best in Utah. It ranks as one of the most king lines I have ever seen. Bully has seen to date only three flashes. First by the Austrian Klem Loskot in the early 2000's. Ethan Pringle flashed it in April 2007, and the 17 year old Brit Ty Landman flashed it in May 2008. To my knowledge, Bully has not yet seen a female ascent, though there are certainly women out there who are capable. This incredibly powerful line will make anyone drool and want to become a stronger boulderer. Bully is just about every strong Salt Lake City climber's lifetime dream project.

    Bully is described as a variation to Shingles, but it is really the main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder. It links Shingles (V9) into Lance's Scary (V7).

    To climb Bully, begin by sit starting on Shingles and do the crux deadpoint. This is a one move V9 or V10 in its own right. Take the juggy three finger crimp pocket with the right hand instead of the left hand, which is what you would do to finish Shingles. Then make an extremely powerful (even more powerful than the crux deadpoint on Shingles) move way left to a sidepull rail which is relatively large and flat. It will help to have a positive ape index as well as strong shoulder and back muscles for this particular movement. Though the holds are big for a 45 degree overhang, the problem is that all of the feet are far apart and/or face the wrong way. Fight to keep your feet on, or re-establish them on the wall. Drop the right knee low, and snag a rounded slopey crimp with the right hand. This marks the start of the problem Lance's Scary which is a V7 in it's own right. If you are climbing the above named problem, it starts off of the rock in the landing on the ground. Pad this rock well, as you will probably fly off and slam into it. You will want to have this finish dialed. Bump the left hand up to the highest part of the rail and bust the right hand up to a flat matchable edge which is the redpoint crux. All of the grips are far apart and the moves are long, though the holds are quite good for a climb of this grade. Match on the two pad flat edge and pull over the lip to the vertical wall above, then continue up the tall easy slab.

    If you can bully Bully, you deserve a pat on the back, and I will buy you a beer.

    Location 

    Bully is the obvious main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder that trends leftward.

    Protection 

    Multiple pads and spotters. A posse of comrades will help with motivating you through the inevitable work it will take to redpoint this beast.


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