||Trad, Sport, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996, FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding June 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||28|
|Submitted By: ||Dom on Jun 27, 2012|
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Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA. Bolted by A. Morgan.
Climb Waterwalk or Trundling by Moonlight or Sparky start variation. From the ledge aim for anchor at the base of Astroboy Direct. Your belayer can belay from the other anchor (more comfy)
3 bolts+gear and Bolted anchor.
Look lower in the comments box for the exact gear I used on the FFA.
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 27, 2012
clip the Astroboy direct anchor. In the first horizontal put a 0.3BD, then a 0.4 BD. Clip the bolt. In the next horizontal, slot a grey metolius, then a 0.75 BD. clip the next two bolts. Then in a long horizontal jug, place a 0.4 BD. Just after place a purple metolius in a small alcove. Finally place a 0.5 BD in a jug on the left. Medium nuts could also be used in a nice vertical crack here. Voilà! All this in 60ft of climbing!